Any near-death or injury experiences while surfing?
There isn't much swell in DE... Ever.... So probably for me the worst injury I had was at Indian River when I dove back into a wave because I was done with it... Hit my head right on the bottom. I was bleeding from the mouth, but I actually finished my surfing session with a headache and bleeding. (shark nerd alert)
I'm hoping some of the seniors have some thrilling stories, or at least more thrilling then mine..
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Thread: Near-Death/Injury experiences?
Jun 12, 2014, 05:39 PM #2
did you die?
Almost drown at KOA in Rodanthe back in 90's - 8 ft evening sesh with just me and my buddy, no lulls, paddled out only to get hammered, my leash wrapped 3x around my legs and dragged down the beach with a sideshore current in the deep water trench a few yards off the beach, taking wave after wave on the head. Honestly thought I was gonna black out and drown and started to accept my fate. That's when i felt sand with my toe and managed to get to the beach only to vomit and have a bit of a cry. (let the name calling begin). My buddy knew nothing about it and simply asked why I was such a pzzy for sitting on the beach lol
Second one was in PR - 1st night there all amped up and decided to walk down a path to try to see the ocean in pitch black. overgrowth got too thick and we couldn't see so we went back to the room. The next morning we retraced our steps and realized we were literally 3 steps away from walking off a 50 ft cliff.
Jun 12, 2014, 05:44 PM #4
I was on vacation a couple weeks ago, wasn't around here that much, started to sweat and get the shakes.
Never really thought my life was ever in peril. Got tangled up in some trawl lines while setting lobster gear, but you move quick when that happens. Saw a skydiver plummet to his death once, poor guy.
Speaking of plummeting to your death, when I was a kid we got out of the water at 14th St. pier in VB to walk to the McDonalds there. Huge thud where you felt the ground shake. Look over and about 25 yards away from us was a 30-something chick who had jumped from the 7th story balcony - just lying there with a blank stare dead. Um, didn't eat lunch that day.
Jun 12, 2014, 05:54 PM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
- Atlantic City
why sure , whipper-snapper, i have a story.
(What were we talking about!!!??)
OH RIGHT. A STORY (big poke on geritol bottle).
goes like dis. one side pumping southern-hemi swell, me in the middle, and sheer cliffs on the other side.
bash. bash. bash went i. over and over. hurts just thinking about it. smash. eeks. smash again.
somehow i made it. and i lived.
WE TALKING ABOUT??? i need a nap.
Jun 12, 2014, 05:58 PM #7
Jun 12, 2014, 06:17 PM #8
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
My friend Sam and I were teaching this girl to surf out on sunset cliffs. Long paddle out, a few hundred yards. Foggy morning, the genius girl was floating outside of me a couple of feet. A wave came, and we were all in position to just let it go under us. I was looking in at the beach, she bailed on a 8 foot funshape at it clocked me right in the back of the head. I didn't see it coming. I slid off my board but was okay once the water hit my face, but I was nearly knocked out, and that far out at sea, with waves around, I would hope that one of them would have helped a brother out and got me in alive..... Wish I had a better, cooler story, but it's dumb sh** like that will get you in the end. That poor kid that is friends with Tyler Steel and Rob Machaco, the x-pro surfer that got paralyzed, he was in a barrel on a 3 foot day he said, a professional surfer, next thing you know he could never walk again.
Had the near drowning thing a few times. Always scariest in Huge mexican beach break, when your board and leash both snap and the current takes you about a mile north, out to see, after you had paddled out into surf that was about twice as big as it looked from the cliffs, only to pull into a giant closeout tube, do your normal kick through the back as it detonates, then you get that leash snapping, board buckling impact that you can feel under water and then the naked feeling of a ripped leash, with nothing on the other end.... Fun fun fun... Didn't die, but my crying wife thought I was dead for about 15 minutes.
Jun 12, 2014, 06:27 PM #9
Came this effin' close to dying when I got the final bill from my divorce lawyer.
Jun 12, 2014, 06:39 PM #10