Kawela bay, hi 8-10ft building swell caught 2 beautiful lefts into channel then decided to go on a right back toward peak. Caught it all the way to the inside, peeled off the shoulder only to look up and see sets marching down from the north waaayyy outside. Put head down and start paddling as hard as I could outside. Don't make it. Bail board and start swimming under. First wave passes come up and next one is right there. Swim under again only to feel something release from my leash(board snapped in half). Come up again and deal w an even bigger one in front of me. Swim under again only to open my eyes underwater to see the whitewater of the next wave steamrolling at me. Broken board keeps me under and does not let me up. Got waxed. Come up, bail said board and leash. Totally gassed I have to swim way back outside to get out of the danger zone. I was so spent my buddy gave me his board to paddle back in while he and our other friend took turns swimming and paddling back in. In hindsight we had no business being out there.
15 years ago pulled up to Wilderness in Puerto Rico at dawn. Quick surf check. Looked big but doable from the parking lot. No big deal.....paddled right out. My buddy was ahead of me paddling out and as he gets out the back he whips around and takes off on the very first wave immediately. As he drops in and goes past me I remember thinking "Damn that was a hell of a lot bigger than it looked from the parking lot." Beyond double overhead. I paddled to where my friend was when he took off and sat a few minutes. A set appeared. As it approached it became clear that I wasn't going to make it. This beast was solid three times overhead. The lip detonated about 10 feet in front of me. I've never felt a force like that. It picked me up and cycled me up and over twice then held me down. I'll never forget being close to blacking out and in the clear water being able to see the surface but not being able to get there. I made it to the surface just in time to be staring right at the lip of another wave coming right down on top of me. Got worked again then scraped my way outside. After regaining my composure I caught two inside waves that were double overhead. About every 10 or 15 minutes one of those mutant sets would come in. I dodged a couple. Then finally I got caught again almost as bad as the first time and I went in. Very humbling experience. Only time I ever felt like kissing the ground.
Left at 5am to drive to Hatteras with the family for a surf trip. Wife, 3 kids and golden retriever all packed into our SUV. A half hour into the drive going 60 down a 2 lane road a pickup approaches going very fast towards us. As he gets closer he begins crossing the center line either asleep or drunk. Our closing speed was so fast that I had little time to react. I drove off onto the grass at 60mph and squeezed between a telephone pole and the truck as he drove off the road with no more than a foot between the pole on one side and the pickup truck on the other as I squirted through. Scariest thing ever. It can all end that fast.
Then stay the hell home, hawkfart. Little ***** ass kiddies who've been crippled by mummsy & da-da. The world's a rough place, it ain't fair & it doesn't care about you or anyone else. Get that through your little fairy princess noggin.
maybe an odd thing about this thread. the older guys spoke of surfing mistakes/disasters.
the younger spoke of guns.
I'm middle-aged and I spoke aboot drugs. The first story is suspect, but supposedly in the second story, I did die one day.
I've never felt I was going to die in the water. I don't know, dudes. This site doesn't really give off a vibe of the majority being real competent surfers. Yet, everybody is riding 15 foot waves. I don't know. People can't get in and out of their wetsuits and now everybody is Flea.
Oh OC surfer dude: Hunting Park Ave and Kensington Ave don't intersect. Did you mean Kensington & Huntingdon St ?
How come you always be getting guns stuck to the back of your head? Dude, if you are walking around the ghetto you have to make sure you know what's in front of you, behind you, and all around you. Man, keep within the confines of the Badlands, especially just a few blocks west of Kensington Ave. They are all business around there, and don't let their customers get beat. You're going to graduate from the blues someday, and the Badlands is where you want to be. Hope, Rosehill, Waterloo ............Always go to the Puerto Rican corners.
iv had more close calls on land than in the water.lets see where should I start lol.I went sledding down a 150ft slope when I was a kid all by myself and wen I got near the bottom the sled spun around and I crashed into a buried shopping cart and split my head open,and somehow tore ligaments in my upper leg.i had to climb back up the hill thought I was a gonner.I got chased through a dead end street off 21st in nwk by a bunch of Mexicans with machetes.if I would've tripped probly would've been murdered ,lucky they were all gordos and couldn't keep up with me.
I was walking some train tracks one day in a no clearance zone around a curve so u couldn't see if anything was coming,but when a train comes u hear the hissing in the tracks.there was a hill there so I climbed up the shyt at the last minute and didn't get hit.
a few crazy car accidents too,none of them my fault,just driving with a friend.my buddy and some other dude started racing in this industrial road and in the middle theres tracks that run through and when my buddy hit it he blew his tire and the car got up on 2 wheels and we landed like 8 inches from a telephone pole,on my side ofcourse.another crazy accident we were heading down a road with a big hill,we were driving up it and the speeds 55 so were driving when a drunk comes flying down the hill into our lane and at the last second my boy switched opposite lanes and at the last second guy swerved back into his lane and sideswiped the shyt out of us,once again my side ofcourse.that's why I don't like being driven around,i can only trust myself behind the wheel
also one day I ate a pot brownie,i know I was overdosing I could feel it,i called the cops for help and they showed up and had to get my stomach pumped.i thought I was gonna turn into a blackie and start raping white women like the commercials say.i got so stoned I was gonna blow my head off with a shotgun,but while looking for it I forgot what I was looking for.maryjewana is bad ummmmkay