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Thread: Ding Cover Sheet
Jun 17, 2014, 12:20 PM #11Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Long Buried Island
Jun 17, 2014, 12:37 PM #12
I tried this past weekend to fix a ding with plastic from a toy package thinking it would do the same thing that the plastic sheet does in the ding repair kits. It didnt. MFer stuck to the epoxy and ruined the progress I made that day. I dont opt to use sun cure but those plastic sheets come in handy for small rail dings and the like. Soo, wax paper works??
Metard whats the deal with your icon and GIF... creepin me out a bit
Jun 17, 2014, 01:19 PM #14
Jun 17, 2014, 02:27 PM #16
I use plastic cling wrap, pull it off when its gelie, works fine for me.
Jun 17, 2014, 03:18 PM #17
Jun 17, 2014, 03:44 PM #18
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
- BELMAR, NJ
The paint brush works great too - just apply it lightly and don't forget- like he mentioned- to peel the tape off when gel
Why not just put a vinyl surf sticker over it?? It would be much easier ... That's usually what I do. Actually I got this vinyl tape that I found at the hardware store meant for windows(glass) that works great and it's clear! When I go on surf trips- forget carrying a ding repair kit or resin- I just bring the tape! I have temporarly repaired some fairly big dings with it - with no issues!
Jun 17, 2014, 03:53 PM #19Junior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Long Island
never used wax paper before but I can definitely see that working.
Acetate paper is the name of the clear plastic piece that comes in the ding repair kits. I am 25, and this is the same type of plastic paper that teachers use to write on with erasable markers and put on projector screens in the classroom. It is expensive.
When you use the acetate, rails can be very easy fixes, maybe even easier than the deck. I always use acetate on the rails.
Rebuilding a tail can be treacherous, however. For the tail, I use cellophane wrap (the very thin, clear plastic that you wrap a sandwich in) because it is very malleable and workable. Round tails I have found to be most difficult.
Jun 17, 2014, 04:21 PM #20
Stiff-ish plastic is great for the rails, nothing else really compares for rail work. If they're super floppy you'll have to sand some wrinkles out. The thicker ones are better, unless you're doing a highly curved part of the rail, like the nose or tail...
The nice thing about these is that when you use sanding resin, and are patient, the styrene comes to the top of the resin, giving a glossy finish when the plastic is removed. DONE!
Go to Staples and git yerself some. Use some real resin and catalyst from a repair kit. And make sure you get the ones with a glossy finish.
Last edited by Slashdog; Jun 17, 2014 at 04:24 PM.