Same thing applies at Blacks and Trestles... But at both of those spots, you can get "over" the crowd and just paddle to middles or uppers, or hit the North Peak at Blacks. There are twice as many barrels on the South Peak, but some of the best barrels I have had at Blacks have been on the North end, just because I got a ton more waves and there are still barrels to be had....
The final thought on this, is when you get to a certain level, there is a lot to be said for surfing around A LOT, of very talented surfers. I really got a HUGE KICK out of getting great waves in front of a crowd. When you show up to a spot, and the whole Plus One teams is clogging up the spot, there are 15 team riders, cameras going... Well, sometimes its a rush to be in a situation like that, cause every time you kill a wave, people that matter and people that are important saw it. I don't care about getting it on TV or getting it on VIDEO, it's more about the other locals, the pros or whoever seeing you getting it done. Sometimes, I love being in a crowd... Cause I would rather impress the most talented guys in the water sometimes than your d-bag friend who can barely stand up and "swears" that he wasn't looking when you landed that air.....
There is something to be said for popping over the back of the wave after a sick ride and seeing everyone staring at you, and once they see you look back at them, they quickly look back out at sea, playing that "I wasn't even watching card" ... Then you chuckle with stoke on your way back out, like yeah, all you mother fu**ers saw that. Stop fronting....
I hate crowds when its small and lame, but if its a few feet overhead and there is a lot of talent out, I actually don't mind it. You spend you time in the lineup, watching guys shred as you wait your turn... Sometimes, when you are surfin a spot like trestles, you see Mick Fanning and Taj burrow paddle out.... And again, I can't think of a better feeling than having a ASP pro checking out your style on a wave. Sometimes, crowds make it fee like a real, american sport....
And dude, when it's firing in the summer, and there are 1000 tourists on the pier, chicks are hooting for you, japanese tourists are cheering.... Its not all about solitude and being alone out there... Sometimes if feels good to put on a show.... Its a whole different kind of stoke...
You have ALL had this feeling: It's winter, you are basically alone, you get a ridiculous barrel, you spit out, holding your hands on your head as you pop over, like WTF just happened, stoke out of your mind, you look around. No one out. You look to the beach, hoping that the couple on the beach at least stopped to admire your ride, but no, they are 200 yards up the beach not paying attention.... You and only you, witnessed one of the sickest rides, EVER!.,...
If a tree falls in the forest and no one is around to hear it? Does it make a sound?
Of course it does. I know my opinions will be met with... Whatever sell out. Thats not why I surf. I dont care what other people think. I don't care who sees me. I don't care about pros... Screw the pros...
I hear yall... I do... You are just full of sh**.
Results 11 to 20 of 144
Thread: There's fifty people out.......
Jun 20, 2014, 03:10 PM #11
Jun 20, 2014, 03:20 PM #12
Jun 20, 2014, 03:23 PM #13
You sound confused SJB lol, my advice is stop overthinking it, let the small logistics of everything go, and surf and catch some waves.
It’s annoying sometimes when you’re one of the first ones out at dawn and as time goes on more people paddle out to the peak you’re at. Last summer I actually used that to my advantage in ocean city, paddled out on the bad side of the jetty and within 10-15 mins the whole crowd was out. Snuck around to the otherside and had the little 3 foot perfection all to myself for a good 10 minutes before they realized they were sitting in choppy slop and I was snagging whatever wave I wanted. The nature of the beast. As for people being douchey or agro out in the water, I just brush it off. I don’t care who you are or what mood you’re in, when I paddle out I’m going out there to have some fun and I’m going to be polite and say hi or hey to whomever I make eye contact with. They want to be all macho and decline the mutual respect so be it, I don’t have to let their negative attitude affect my positive mindset. And if I’m picking up some bad vibes at a particular break, I’ll just head to another spot and reconnect.
I try and remind myself the ocean belongs to no one and it’s been around a lot longer than us and will be for time to come. I get inside my own head sometimes and give myself a false sense of entitlement because I surf all winter so I should have first dibs at a spots or I deserve to be there more than the summer shoobies. But in the end it’s all bs, when you simplify (maybe oversimplifying) we’re just evolved monkeys splashing around in the water and when too many monkeys come into our zones we get territorial.
And @baddy- I completely agree with you, if I’m out and there’s some guy or kid out there getting every wave left and right acting like the waves are his or something cus he’s sponsored or pro or whatever, there is no greater feeling than snaking them on a wave when they least expect it and they get all grumpy because that 20th wave they we’re about to get just got taken by someone else and they didn’t see me sneak to the inside when they had their head turned. Humbles me a little because I’ll have that false sense of entitlement like I stated earlier and then encounter someone with an even higher degree of self-entitlement and swoop in. It is quite enjoyable to see their face when they’re about to drop in only to look down the line and see me coming at them already
Jun 20, 2014, 03:25 PM #14
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
Jun 20, 2014, 03:27 PM #15
@zach, very well said and alternative perspective! I dig it
Jun 20, 2014, 03:32 PM #16
Ah, the, "Did you see that?" affliction. I know it. I've suffered from it. Still sort of do.
But see, conversely, that's why surfing solo on a deserted beach is good because you don't have to get upset that the chick on the beach or the alpha local missed that air you just did.
It never even becomes an issue.
Hey, they let you surf Sunset Cliffs? You use a leash?
Zach, thanks for your honesty. So, me being Sigmund Freud, well, we both like coke, I'll assume that your surfing talent is a big part of your identity and self-worth. Hence, you enjoy surfing in a crowd so you can perform.
WOAAHH, don't get offended or anything. I'm just delving into your personality a bit, and I'm not being one bit Judge Ito Mental or insulting.
Oh man, I switched "judgmental" for "Judge Ito Mental." That was sick, bru. Judge Ito? OJ?
As I said, I suffer from, "Did you see that" syndrome, too. Not as bad as I used to but..........
And Zach, you can think I suck all you want, but I ripped up until the time I turned 40(two years ago). I don't know what happened. I just don't have what I used to.
I am not full of excrement when I say I could care less aboot pros. I really don't want them anywhere near me. Good lord, I don't even want to be near the Jersey pros and they're really not pros.
Zach, how many fights have you gotten into surfing in Cullyfornia?
Jun 20, 2014, 03:38 PM #17
Zombie, I'm not confused. Just something I wonder aboot, not obsess over. As I said, I rarely see people in the water, and there's a big playing field were I roam - and everyone packs in to a 30 yard area from May to October.
And per your story, I just wonder aboot the Pied Piper syndrome that plagues the surfing world. You lured a crowd into sub par surf while just over the jetty it was better. That kind of illustrates the ridiculousness I'm trying to point out. Can't these dudes judge wave quality or do they just paddle out wherever someone else is?
Jun 20, 2014, 03:46 PM #18
Never gotten in a fight in CA about surfing or in the water. Had a few skirmishes at the local watering holes etc. Mostly when I moved the Baltimore Crew out there for a few years. That was like mixing oil and water. Almost got in a fist fight with the entire Volcom surf team in OB. My friend threw me under the bus, claiming that although he sucked at surf, "that guy" as he pointed over to me, "would smoke any one of you in a heat"... That conversation was followed by... "Do you know who we are? Do you think all of our shoes, and socks, and hats and shirt and shorts, and all our smoking hot's chick's apparel are all Volcom, because we just LIKE VOLCOM? Bro, I am paid to surf. I wont 6 NSSAs in my teens. Ill see you in the water bro"... Almost ended up pounding the entire crew, but we left without incident, and the entire Volcom team became my nemesis' for years to come.
But no, never gotten in a fight in a CA lineup. If you have to resort to fighting, you probably can't surf for sh**. That is what I have learned. I have SEEN fights, but it was pretty gay. I have been the only "local" adult out and had to come to the defense of a few local little pro-am teens when they were being threatened by Brazilians and stuff. But never had to do anything about it.
One day, I was WASTED, and the Warped Tour was in SD. My friends Band was in it. I was down partying all day with my GF, now wife and the crew. Wife Drove back to OB, cause I was HAMMERED... paddled out... It was probably, knee to waist high. Super crowded. I was drunk, and paddled right up against some guy I had never seen and as I took off, on the knee high drainer, he said "What the ****". I jumped off my board in about knee deep water. Looked back and went Atom Bomb on this poor, unsuspecting guy. I was like "WTF? WHAT? GET THE FU** OUT OF THE WATER. RIGHT NOW!" At this point, I am on the beach, board in the sand, ranting and raving like a mad man, only 20 feet from the guy. I was like, yeah BI**H, Im talking to you. Dont be driving out here from Arizona talking sh**. Get out of the water BI**H. Finally, my wife came up and was like, dude, you are making a scene and you will probably get arrested if you don't shut the fu** up. It was kinda gay for me to act that way, but I WAS WASTED. **** FACE DRUNK. And once the guy backed off completely and showed his fear, I just went after it.
Im not that guy either. I blame the booze.
Last edited by zach619; Jun 20, 2014 at 03:48 PM.
Jun 20, 2014, 03:52 PM #19
And there’s a lot of psychology that goes into all of it I’m sure. Don’t necessarily have to understand how or why something works in order to use it. I don’t understand how every circuit in my phone works but I use it on a daily basis. Same goes for the peeps in the summer, I figured if I went out to an empty spot they’d follow suit and I slipped away to get a few good waves with everyone else a few hundred yards away. Still don't understand exactly why they followed me, but I was honest surprised it worked a little bit haha. But I’m just going to assume that the summer months bring a lot of inexperienced surfers to the beach, whom lack the confidence in their ability to read the ocean and conditions but can spot someone surfing and just say ok that’s where I’m supposed to surf. And the more people out at a spot, people assumed that’s the designated surfing spot. I’ve never surfed in cali before, where I’m sure all these factors are entirely different as there are many more people who adopt surfing as a way of life, versus a summer time activity…
Jun 20, 2014, 03:55 PM #20
But yeah, every single day after that incident in the bar, I would make sure to get the edge of my fins, my spray, my bottom turns as close to each volcom team riders I would see face as humanly possible from that point on. If any one of those fu**s were out, I was trying to go big. Airs, anything. I just always felt the need to try and compete with everything they did, tha bastards.
I was actually haunted by this a few months ago, I was watching an old DV tape that my wife took while I was surfing the pier about 5 years ago, and there is a whole clip, of one of the Volcom Team rider, going left on a wave, he did a few sick snaps and then landed a perfect 360 frontside air. And then it happened, as he hopped off and gathered his board, he KNEW that someone was filming on the beach, and he STARED right into my camera for like 3 seconds after the wave, to make sure that "someone got that on film". Its like 5 years later, my wife is asleep on the couch, I shake her awake, and I go, WTF MEG? Why the fu** would you film ******* while I am surfing. We all knew each other, so she knew his name. She replied: "I thought it was you at the time". I said, DID I EVER OWN A WETSUIT, WITH A 4 FOOT HIGH VOLCOM LOGO ON THE ENTIRE BACK OF IT???? WTF MEG? I got a freaking chill down my spine when I got a cold stare, years later, on another coast from my Arch Nemesis.