Getting ready to paddle out? Just got back from a sick/pitiful one? Just spotted the bouys? Were they up or down? Has it been flat forever? Wind's turning on/offshore? Post your mini-rants here. I'll start:
HEY, WEIRD SE WIND: F-U! YOU BETTER BE OFFSHORE IN AN HOUR! Or at least under just a few knots! Yesterday was good, but today OUGHT to be better. It looked good earlier, so don't **** it up!! Stupid wind. Go blow somewhere else.
Despite the less than inspiring forecasts, there is 2 ft-plus action out there to be found if you're persistent. It isn't anything outstanding, nor is it consistent, but it is ride-able and more fun than prone paddling for an hour. I've been having better luck here (VB) in the mornings before work.
Skipped out on my plan to go to **o*'s for dawn patrol. Planned to paddle *a** mid-morning, instead.
Wind was offshore at *a** at 6.
Wind was hard onshore at same at 9.
**o*'s had 32 bodies on it, and I'm too spoiled to paddle into that.
Waited for the wind to change, and it did; went calm-ish at 1300.
Stood and watched a few guys get pounded in a messed-up DOH humpfest at *a** for a while, then passed.
I spent so much effort timing and watching it, I can't believe I didn't paddle out today!
Bouys held solid all night and this swell finally rewarded me with a bunch of big fat HH+ mushburgers covered in kooks. Oh well, at least I caught a bunch and got some exercise. I should've skinned it. The water at **r*'s was freaking warm, even in the earlies. Waited waaaay TF outside for my last wave in and caught a semi-juicy one. Cool.
surfing as a working man is more frustration than stoke.i can recall so many days when I was out too early or too late and conditions were crappy winds,then get home and see epic barrels 2 hrs later.i never knew how much wind direction affects waves.
Checked the forecast and saw there is nothing more than 2 feet, and I can't line up the tide with the time I'd like to get to the beach. My other frustrations are when I get to the beach, a nice swell comes towards you.. doesn't. even. break. Wind always changing from a nice west to just south.. AHHHHHHHHHHHH! I don't want to wait till winter or a for a hurricane! I like surfing good waves in warm water!
I sound like a little kid crying for a toy at the store, but in reality I know I gotta tough through it... There will be days.
I can't complain. My stoke level is very high. I surfed 5 out of the last 7 days. Some really great waves, the rest were "good". Surfed Florida, Southern SC and Northern SC all in the same week. For the first week of July, I have no complaints. My back is a little tight from paddling so much. I am way darker than I should be from soaking in the sun all day. But trunking it in super warm water, enjoying great waves on a variety of boards all in one week is pretty much a total score for where I live now. My wave count in the past week exceeds a normal 2 month span, so all in all, my stoke tank is full with some on reserve.
I would love to get out and surf, I'm dying for some waves right now and want to get out of the cube farms. What I wouldn't give to see this type of forecast for the mid atlantic... maybe I should just say eff it and book a one way flight to nicaragua