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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandblasters View Post
    Attachment 11295

    not always zach, this was like 2 or 3 years ago 1 hour after low on a 8 foot swell rolling in,which switched to 35mph offshores at mid tide which was night by then but was semi closed out and very shallow busted a fin box pulling into one, i wish i had pics of that day but the gorpo died and i had to take it off because it was to (heavy) but one day we will charge gaskin on the next hurricane swell, there are tiger sharks the size of cars out there but as i said before if your willing to paddle out im going with you just let me know, because alone that is just to damn risky. i love risk but you dont want to paddle out into a one of the biggest shark breading grounds on the coast alone.
    Nice man. Thats what thew guy told me though, if its a macking swell, there will be barrels all over the place. But in my almost two years of living here, the MAX swell that has hit was Sandy. I am sure you surfed it. It was no where near 8 feet. It was fun as hell, 5-6 maybe, but just didnt have enough juice to hollow out at the low tide. It just died. Maybe as the swell built, before the sun came up, at its max, sandy was delivering, but high tide was mid morning that day. It was fun. But I am frothing for a swell like the one in that pic. As the new guy, you gotta hit a brother up when that happens and show me the ropes. ya heard?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by civilengsp View Post
    First of all, thanks for your reply. I'm actually studying the case from an engineering point of view. I've done the statistics from data obtained from offshore virtual buoys and calculated a series of wave heights and periods for a certain return period. I'm simulating those results on a model, so I'm reproducing those events in the exact same conditions for both highest high tide and lowest low tide. In terms of bathymetry, the slope is really mild... I'm not seeing any irregularities along the vicinity of the breakwater. Even though, after running multiple simulations, I'm obtaining these weird results of taller waves at low tide. I've done other studies in other locations and yes, I've always had taller waves at high tide...

    Any ideas about this?

    Once again, I really appreciate all of your contributions!
    Check your data and your variables. If it is running the same simulation, just a different location, it should produce the same result. There has to be a factor or a vairable in the new data you are applying that is different. But again, its all about what kind of simulation and AI you are using...

    For instance, I took all my Buoy code from California, and ran it through a filter, changing every angle I had in there exactly 180 degrees, it was the exact came code, just reversed. So, when I applied the same exact math, based on all the programming I did on the west coast, the results were proper, but inaccurate. Meaning, that a swell come directly east, 3ft @ 12 seconds at a 3 foot outgoing tide, does not produce the same results as the 3ft @ 12 seconds coming directly west to the west coast. The bottom contours were the true variable that made the data all wrong. So basically, through trial and error, the unfortunate truth was the the exact same swell, at an opposite angle, hitting our beach here, only produces a wave about half the size. This is because of how deep the shelf is on the west coast and how rapidly it does get deep.

    But... If you are only running simulations, and you dont have variables accounting for all the bathometry or whatever, there should be zero affect on your simulations. It should produce the exact same result, unless there is a layer of variables or data that you are overlooking...

    Hard to tell without knowing all the data you are mining to produce these simulations. Because buoy data alone will not give you any of that. You would have to overlay this on a geo-map, running two different kinds of code together to get true output.

  3. #23
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    032.jpg031.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    Nice man. Thats what thew guy told me though, if its a macking swell, there will be barrels all over the place. But in my almost two years of living here, the MAX swell that has hit was Sandy. I am sure you surfed it. It was no where near 8 feet. It was fun as hell, 5-6 maybe, but just didnt have enough juice to hollow out at the low tide. It just died. Maybe as the swell built, before the sun came up, at its max, sandy was delivering, but high tide was mid morning that day. It was fun. But I am frothing for a swell like the one in that pic. As the new guy, you gotta hit a brother up when that happens and show me the ropes. ya heard?
    unfortunately i didnt surf hurricane sandy on hhi, but i did surf it on lake erie i was going to college out of state for a semester and that was a crazy experience, when you see 14 surfer in the water outside of cleveland. i herd sandy was a bust here compared to most places, i mean look at the pics from Florida and mid Atlantic. idk man ive never gone out to gaskin though, we both got to learn the ropes lol. when i took that pic it was small but i mean **** barrels were to be had and thats all that matters right? the pics from sandy i saw were super small here i still dont believe it. here was a quick one i took during Irene when the swell started dropping after i got out. hard to see the size because there is no reference.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandblasters View Post
    032.jpg031.jpg


    unfortunately i didnt surf hurricane sandy on hhi, but i did surf it on lake erie i was going to college out of state for a semester and that was a crazy experience, when you see 14 surfer in the water outside of cleveland. i herd sandy was a bust here compared to most places, i mean look at the pics from Florida and mid Atlantic. idk man ive never gone out to gaskin though, we both got to learn the ropes lol. when i took that pic it was small but i mean **** barrels were to be had and thats all that matters right? the pics from sandy i saw were super small here i still dont believe it. here was a quick one i took during Irene when the swell started dropping after i got out. hard to see the size because there is no reference.
    We could hit the bank right up on the north end that we discussed. Gaskin is out at sea though. Thats f'in nuts.

    Sandy was good. Best ive seen here. It was a solid 6 feet. Clean as hell. But I paddled out with dry hair and never really had the blood pumping. It was just clean, offshore, waves. Carolina Cuts backs were dumping buckets everywhere. Just no tube riding.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    We could hit the bank right up on the north end that we discussed. Gaskin is out at sea though. Thats f'in nuts.

    Sandy was good. Best ive seen here. It was a solid 6 feet. Clean as hell. But I paddled out with dry hair and never really had the blood pumping. It was just clean, offshore, waves. Carolina Cuts backs were dumping buckets everywhere. Just no tube riding.
    im sorry i meant joiner the whole time not gaskin. gaskin would be really cool though, idk if you've herd of this but the savannah river shipping channel has a Galveston type wave that breaks like a good 4 or 5 foot when a ship goes though idk where its at but i think its off the jetties. look it up.

    on a side note my fin hit something big on my paddle out today and it wasnt the sand, my board stopped mid paddle.
    Last edited by sandblasters; Jun 25, 2014 at 12:51 AM.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandblasters View Post
    im sorry i meantjoiner the whole time not gaskin. gaskin would be really cool though, idk if you've herd of this but the savannah river shipping channel has a Galveston type wave that breaks like a good 4 or 5 foot when a ship goes though idk where its at but i think its off the jetties. look it up.

    on a side note my fin hit something big on my paddle out today and it wasnt the sand, my board stopped mid paddle.
    also if you look in the back ground of those pic you can see the breakers in the back ground that is gaskin or the sandbars. because where i surf gaskin is right out at the horizon i see it break from the shore on big swells.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by civilengsp View Post
    Hi there everybody.

    I'm new to this forum and I've been searching for an answer to this question like mad, but nobody knows what to say about it. I analyse marine climate through numerical modelling, but I've found something that isn't very logical to me: I'm having taller waves on low tide than on high tide. I know you surfers understand the mechanics behind waves, so, what do you think? Is this possible to you?

    Thank you very much in advance!
    Being someone who surfs and spends alot of time out on a boat too id say it depends. Waves in the surf zone bottom contour, wind and tide have all different effects at different spots. In open ocean wind against tide is usually the roughest.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by civilengsp View Post
    First of all, thanks for your reply. I'm actually studying the case from an engineering point of view. I've done the statistics from data obtained from offshore virtual buoys and calculated a series of wave heights and periods for a certain return period. I'm simulating those results on a model, so I'm reproducing those events in the exact same conditions for both highest high tide and lowest low tide. In terms of bathymetry, the slope is really mild... I'm not seeing any irregularities along the vicinity of the breakwater. Even though, after running multiple simulations, I'm obtaining these weird results of taller waves at low tide. I've done other studies in other locations and yes, I've always had taller waves at high tide...

    Any ideas about this?

    Once again, I really appreciate all of your contributions!
    Figures don't lie but liars figure. All you engineers live in a fantasy world, where a 40 year storm in your books is the 10 year storm of today, and now we get 100 year storms on the regs. So all you models are worthless, at best and a danger to society in real life. What direction does your breakwater face and what body of water are you going to drop this monstrosity, and what surf break are you going to destroy? And how much are you getting paid to do this? Are you proud?
    Last edited by sisurfdogg; Jun 25, 2014 at 02:11 AM. Reason: Coastal Engineers suck

  9. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by sisurfdogg View Post
    Figures don't lie but liars figure. All you engineers live in a fantasy world, where a 40 year storm in your books is the 10 year storm of today, and now we get 100 year storms on the regs. So all you models are worthless, at best and a danger to society in real life. What direction does your breakwater face and what body of water are you going to drop this monstrosity, and what surf break are you going to destroy? And how much are you getting paid to do this? Are you proud?
    There's no reason to be aggressive. You don't know me and neither what I'm doing. I'm a student at the moment, so I'm not being paid. With respect to the return periods, we can't see the future, so we must work with the available data so that, to the extent possible, the dangers can be measured and controlled.

    The project I'm working on is the improvement of an existing port... I'm not destroying any surf break.

    And yes, I am proud. Are you? You should be a little bit more respectful with other people. I wouldn't say you suck without knowing you.

  10. #30
    I do have the bathymetry data and it is included in the model. I'm running exactly same events except for the tide. Maybe it is what mitchell's talking about (thanks by the way):

    Which model are you using? SWAN? Maybe at a low enough tide the water depths further offshore are shallow enough to cause some wave refraction focusing energy at a particular location, while at higher tides the deeper water doesn't allow this.
    I am using SWAN. What do you think about this? Thanks again

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