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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandblasters View Post
    Attachment 11295

    not always zach, this was like 2 or 3 years ago 1 hour after low on a 8 foot swell rolling in,which switched to 35mph offshores at mid tide which was night by then but was semi closed out and very shallow busted a fin box pulling into one, i wish i had pics of that day but the gorpo died and i had to take it off because it was to (heavy) but one day we will charge gaskin on the next hurricane swell, there are tiger sharks the size of cars out there but as i said before if your willing to paddle out im going with you just let me know, because alone that is just to damn risky. i love risk but you dont want to paddle out into a one of the biggest shark breading grounds on the coast alone.
    Sick one blasters!

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by civilengsp View Post
    There's no reason to be aggressive. You don't know me and neither what I'm doing. I'm a student at the moment, so I'm not being paid. With respect to the return periods, we can't see the future, so we must work with the available data so that, to the extent possible, the dangers can be measured and controlled.

    The project I'm working on is the improvement of an existing port... I'm not destroying any surf break.

    And yes, I am proud. Are you? You should be a little bit more respectful with other people. I wouldn't say you suck without knowing you.
    You come on this forum with a few vague questions, but still no answer on what body of water. Is this some top secret government project? Will there be restricted zones? Many times increasing the length of breakwaters or jetties increases refraction and makes it even more dangerous for boats to come in and out during high seas. Why is the port in need of improvement, and who says so? My hostility stems from dealing with a long line of idiots backed by special interests and armed with data to justify destroying our coastal environment. Other than that, your cool brah! Study hard and stay in school.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by sisurfdogg View Post
    My hostility stems from dealing with a long line of idiots backed by special interests and armed with data to justify destroying our coastal environment.
    Ample justification for hostility and suspicion.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandblasters View Post
    im sorry i meant joiner the whole time not gaskin. gaskin would be really cool though, idk if you've herd of this but the savannah river shipping channel has a Galveston type wave that breaks like a good 4 or 5 foot when a ship goes though idk where its at but i think its off the jetties. look it up.

    on a side note my fin hit something big on my paddle out today and it wasnt the sand, my board stopped mid paddle.
    We are going to hit Joiner one day. I am thinking it would be in the fall, with a substantial, named system. If we time it when the swell angle is coming in straight east, it should come in above the Gaskins and deliver the swell head on, right at the bar out there. I see that bi*** breaking at low tide every time I am up on the north beaches. Clear as day. We will just have to wear the shark diving suits that day and say fu** it.

    Growing up, everyone told me how sharky the shoals and the inlet were in Ocean City. Seen one thresher there when I was a teenager, that's it. Ever. I think they just didn't want the shoals to get crowded and having guys towing into it.

    And as for the Savannah Shipping Channel, man... I have been told not even to touch that water with exposed skin. They basically said, if you get water from the Savannah River on your shoe, throw your shoe away. And those f'in cargo ships are insane. Last two times I have been down there, huge ones rolled through, taller than the skyline. Easily like 15 stories high. Moving a ton of water behind it. They go pretty slow though. The wake was not all that. They probably open it up a bit once they get out of river street.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by sisurfdogg View Post
    You come on this forum with a few vague questions, but still no answer on what body of water. Is this some top secret government project? Will there be restricted zones? Many times increasing the length of breakwaters or jetties increases refraction and makes it even more dangerous for boats to come in and out during high seas. Why is the port in need of improvement, and who says so? My hostility stems from dealing with a long line of idiots backed by special interests and armed with data to justify destroying our coastal environment. Other than that, your cool brah! Study hard and stay in school.
    Not a top secret project. It's a port located on the southern coast of France (Atlantic) and is hypothetical because I'm a student. The port has suffered damage from NW storms and needs being repaired. There are no special interests other than get to know the way waves act against coastal structures. I thought you surfers were a good source of info... Didn't pretend to argue with you. Whether you like it or not, these kinds of infrastructures are needed and someone has to do them. Why fight if you can offer constructive opinions?

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by civilengsp View Post
    Not a top secret project. It's a port located on the southern coast of France (Atlantic) and is hypothetical because I'm a student. The port has suffered damage from NW storms and needs being repaired. There are no special interests other than get to know the way waves act against coastal structures. I thought you surfers were a good source of info... Didn't pretend to argue with you. Whether you like it or not, these kinds of infrastructures are needed and someone has to do them. Why fight if you can offer constructive opinions?
    If that is the case, then yes, I would side with Mitchell. When dealing with a "breakwall" or an obstruction that does not match the surrounding coast line, the dispersment of the water when it reaches it's final destination would be different. So, if you have a breakwall in between two normal beaches, the water will jack up as it approaches the break wall earlier than it would without obstruction. Maybe this is magnified at the lower tide, where the water has less option to move any way but up. If that makes sense.

    Something you may want to look into, model wise, if you can pull similar data, would be looking at a model of water breaking up against a cliff and then the same water breaking on sand. So, find a stretch of beach, Sunset Cliffs would be a good instance of this. There are open, sandy beaches, where the waves eventually crash into, but mixed among them are tall cliffs. So, if you could look at an area like that, preferably if there is one in southern france, that could give you an answer. If could either tell you, yes, my simulation is correct, and it is doing what it would actually do, or something is just off.

    I can't say yey or ney on the low tide thing, but if you are talking about water refraction off a structure, then at a low tide, that could create more water, forcing what we consider a "wave height" to be higher, simply because the water is slightly taller above the ocean's surface. But in reality, I don't think what you would see is actually a "wave" as it were. It would, mathematically speaking just mean that there is a slightly higher amount of water moving around above the sea level....

    Dunno. But like I said, look for an area along that coast that has a natural obstruction. A cliff or hillside where the waves actually crash right into it. Take a look at that area and how it reacts, and that should give you your answer.

  7. #37
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    I guess what I am saying, is that what the simulation considers "a wave" is probably not a wave. because what the algorythm considers a wave is just the amount of water above sea level as the ocean moves. As long as the moving water falls into all the scenerios and filters, it will be treated as a wave on your model and the output would look like one, when in reality, it was just moving water, POTENTIALLY, even water moving back out to sea. The water, at a low tide, against an obstruction would create a rise in the ocean height, even if half of the water is moving back out to sea. The computer will just read that as "wave height" not taking into consideration what that water is actually doing. So, that added rise in "wave height" may not be a wave at all. It could just be the end result, which is identified as a wave, even if it is not.

  8. #38
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    There is a wave model called RefDiff developed by Kirby (last name) that you might want to look into, that takes account of the high resolution refraction/diffraction processes, which is what you are going to deal with with a breakwater. In general, tidal influences on wave height will be largely influenced by Bathymetry, but currents, refraction, and detraction can play big roles especially with coastlines impacted by coastal structures, such as inlets and hard structures or where currents from inland bays are nearby.

  9. #39
    Thanks for all of your answers. They are really helpful. I've been thinking that, as my model isn't counting right now with any wave breaking parameters, the shoaling effect is free to elevate the water as far up as nearly the whole wave height.

  10. #40
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    I forgot how polluted that river is I don't like to eat anything out of it plus they dumped a sht tone of radioactive waste in it from back in the day when the savannah river site could get away with it.

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