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  1. #111
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Ocean City, MD
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    Okay, so I'm a glutton for abuse. . . have at it:
    <<So, this week, 50 years ago at 14, I got my second real paycheck from working as a pool boy/ mini golf attendant and go-fer at the Stockton Motel in Cape May. My brother had gotten me skim boarding two years earlier on a marine plywood round skim board. I had my share of skin strawberries on my knees, hips and elbows to prove that I had learned to avoid the ever present wipeouts in early skimboarding. We weren't launching into shorebreak, but just maximizing distance on the flat sands of Cape May beaches. At any rate, I had saved enough from two $40 checks to have enough to actually buy a surfboard, and it has made all the difference in the interim.

    My father poo pooed the idea of spending $80 on a surfboard (it was a Dextra Royal Hawaiian pop out board made with matt glass, not fiberglass) because it was just a fad. As much as I loved and respected my Dad, I'd like to think he was wrong from the perspective of the last 50 years. I scavenged a small formica covered piece of countertop and made the most of two wheels from a broken bicycle to fashion a bike trailer out of aluminum tubing and a long axle rod for the wheels. At any rate, it worked and gave me the opportunity to head for Poverty Beach (not a guarded beach back then) for numerous solitary surf sessions. It wasn't much, but I figured I had to start somewhere. The board didn't last, but the memories have.

    My next investment was a short sleeve wetsuit jacket, complete with a swivel lock beaver tail, and within two years I was custom ordering a full wetsuit for winter from Central Skindivers of Jamica, NY (mail order no less) Remember, this was hardly a surfing suit, stiff as a board (pants and jacket that flushed cold water through the suit every time you went underwater) and I guess you could say I was hooked.

    By 1966, my family moved to Ocean City, Maryland (the town I was rooting for over Union, NJ; or Hyattsville, MD) and my passion for surfing was set. That spring I started fixing rental surfboards for Spyder's Surf Shop in OC where I met my surfing buddies. We would eventually become the Spyder's "Weber Team" in '67-'70 when school and eventually a career in teaching would enable me to remain near the ocean. Surfing has been one of the highlights of the last 50 years from New Jersey, to OCM, to Hatteras, to Puerto Rico, El Salvador and California twice.

    Now, 50 years on, it's not quite as easy, but it's always been fun, and that has made all the difference. I doubt I'll make it another 50, but it's been a great ride, and I've got no complaints. Not bad for a "fad" at all in my book!>>
    http://mdsurferpix.tripod.com/webonm...earsofSurf.jpg

  2. #112
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Singer Island
    Posts
    1,112
    Quote Originally Posted by surfin paulie View Post
    Stuff brings back memories. Sorry don't have as many memories as I'd like. Too many mushrooms and Pink Floyd albums... What I DO remember is that in 1970, every goofy footer kid like me wanted to be Gerry Lopez and have a Lightning Bolt on his board. No leashes back then. Check out how he body surfs in after getting munched. He was my hero back in the day.

    Carlos on the soundtrack, Gerry on the Bolt, two masters who are still the kings of style.

  3. #113
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Galveston, TX
    Posts
    209
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    Yeah man. Carlos is the only guy who WAILS on the guitar in Spanish. Not sings in Spanish. PLAYS in Spanish. Style for days.

    And my favorite surfing move of all time, I'll call it the "Gerry." Imagine it's 1972, and it's freakin scary huge at Pipeline. Some of the world's best surfers are comin in and tryin to ride it. These guys are all muscled up, wide stances, arms goin everywhere, just to survive the huge surf and not wipeout. They might be called "aggro" today. Then this mild mannered, kinda slim guy, grabs his board, smiles, and heads out. Aggro dudes are like "WTF? That little guy's gonna get killed!" Locals knew what's up. It was Gerry. He catches the biggest wave of the biggest set. He drops in and gets in the sweet spot. Barrel so big you could put a 2 story house in there. Then he does it. Goes limp, feet just barely more than shoulder width apart, knees slightly bent, arms at his sides. Complete opposite of aggro. He is completely relaxed while tons of water are crashing all around him. Gets so far back in the barrel, that he's gone, for a few seconds. The barrel crashes shut, a huge explosion of seawater blasts from the opening, and aggro dudes say "That had to kill him." Then, Gerry, still completely relaxed, arms still at his sides, knees just slightly bent, comes blasting outa that barrel like it was a cannon. Glides out onto the shoulder, and over the back, with a kid's grin on his face. Perhaps only the Duke himself could surf with more flow, style, and just regal air that Gerry had.

    Us kids would try to find a clean section, on our little waist high peelers, put our feet close together, drop our arms down, and do a Gerry.

  4. #114
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Galveston, TX
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    209
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    Last, but not least... Home surfin movies with a Super 8 FILM camera in a baggie. My next door neighbor was old enough to drive, and own a Super 8 film camera. Our little band of hooligans would go shoot movies of each other surfing. Had to put the camera in a baggie to keep it dry. Wait a week to get the film developed, then it was PARTY TIME!!! Get out the projector. Put on a RECORD of Santana, or Deep Purple, or maybe even Uriah Heep. Hang the white sheet on the wall, get way too baked, and just go nuts hootin and hollerin at each other's rides. "Dude! I can't BELIEVE you made that section!" "Dude! Did you see that tube?!?" The film would get stuck in the projector and you'd see the hole burn through it. Spliced it back together with tape. Watched em over and over and over again.

  5. #115
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    3,671
    Good stuff Paulie, that sounds like a lotta fun. With all the technology we have today, it probably is never quite the same huh?

  6. #116
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Galveston, TX
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    Yeah, it was a lotta fun.

    Here's the Gerry move we kids wanted to do...

    Gerry-Lopez-1.jpg

  7. #117
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Galveston, TX
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    While this is a new video, it reminded me of somethin else we used to do when we were kids. Longboardin with your dog, or with two of us on the same board. I know some of y'all thing longboards are the highest form of blasphemy, but oh well. Paulie don't like playin by everyone else's rules I reckon. Shoot, it was fun. I've been thinkin of gettin a beagle, just so I can surf with Snoopy.


  8. #118
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    VA Beach
    Posts
    913
    Quote Originally Posted by MDSurfer View Post
    Okay, so I'm a glutton for abuse. . . have at it:
    <<So, this week, 50 years ago at 14....]
    Thanks for the reminiscing. Brought back my own memories from early teenage years in early 70s So. Calif and how we used to cobble together gear for skin diving, spear fishing and hunting abalone off Palos Verdes. Wetsuits, if we wore them, usually consisted of of ill fitting beaver tail tops, booties, and gloves. The latter were more for hand protection from rocky reefs, barnacles, mussels, fish fins, etc. Gardening gloves were also used.
    Much was a hodgepodge collection of assembled parts from dive store or surf shop cast-offs or hand-me-downs from older brothers or friends. Hawaiian slings and spear guns were old ones which we often had to repair. Some slings we made ourselves from the gathered components. Most of us gave surfing a try, but we were more into diving then.

  9. #119
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    2,412
    Quote Originally Posted by MDSurfer View Post
    Okay, so I'm a glutton for abuse. . . have at it:
    <<So, this week, 50 years ago at 14, I got my second real paycheck from working as a pool boy/ mini golf attendant and go-fer at the Stockton Motel in Cape May.
    Wow... I worked down the street at the Stockholm Motor Inn. This was about 35 years ago. At that time, if they were the same owners, your boss and my boss were good friends. I remember my boss telling me that our grass wasn't as good as your grass, and it burned him up!

    Poverty Beach, btw, was the only beach that could handle big hurricane swells, and guys would come from all over to surf that beach. With so many guys in the water, the armed guard at the coast guard hut would get really nervous...

  10. #120
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Ocean City, MD
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    952
    Yep, Wally Ryder was quite a character, his wife and kids were very gracioius as well. Heck, they hired me didn't they?