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Thread: Beginner technique questions
Jul 10, 2014, 06:13 PM #41
Jul 10, 2014, 06:16 PM #42
You know what I never see? Groms. Maybe I am just in the wrong place at the wrong times, but all of the beginners I see these days are at least in their late twenties. Only ever see kids at contests, with their parents watching.
Jul 10, 2014, 06:31 PM #43
Jul 10, 2014, 07:34 PM #44
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
Jul 10, 2014, 07:39 PM #45
Jake, these guys gave you great pointers for when you're in the water.
Do this stuff for the other 85% of the days out of the year when you can't surf so you can kill it when the swell hits:
1. Cardio is king. Start running at least a few times a week and keep running longer and faster as you progress. On the days you don't run, find a rowing machine to use. These are great full-body workouts that'll increase endurance and overall physical strength. You'll also shed pounds like a fatty with gastro, in turn, making it easier to pop up and balance.
2. Someone mentioned this earlier - push-ups, pull-ups, core strength. Try to do one of these each day on a rotational schedule.
3. Mix in some yoga to keep the body guessing and get some flexibility.
I used to not surf very much because I wasn't in good shape and it was a struggle for me. I went to school at a landlocked college and picked up running. I got into the best shape of my life that first year and when I went back home in the summer, I started surfing again. It was so much easier for me because I was in such good shape and I was able to quickly learn and progress beyond the point of other guys who had been surfing for years just in that one summer.
Peak physical fitness will improve your surfing and overall life experience. No Excuses. Get after it.
Jul 10, 2014, 07:49 PM #46
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
Kids are taking over surfing. They are getting better and better, younger and younger. On any given day at a good spot in CA, you will see a dozen 11-13 years old just boosting crazy and just throwing their boards around the wave face like they are skate boards. Not to mention tucking into barrels of all size, from tiny to huge. Kids used to always have talent, but now they have developed style by age 10. Little teenagers that way 100 pounds can power surf and throw huge hacks, tuck in a little barrel and then stick a 360 frontside air totally clean....
It's a sad state of affairs, but it's incredible to watch. John John was one of the first kids from the next generation to break through into the big leagues. But man, the future is in the youth.
No matter where you live, I am sure you can all agree that the talent levels at such a young age are insane.
There was a 13-14 year old kid surfing next to me most of the day during arthur. We were trading waves most of the time. This kid was getting 3 barrels to my every 1. He was just popping up, all 110, 5'4" of him, tucking right into the backdoor of the barrels. It wasn't really an air kind of day, but I was impressed with the kid.
He probably got more barrels that day than anyone else on this island, and he was 13-14, maybe 15 max. Little dude was putting on a barrel clinic.
Jul 10, 2014, 08:41 PM #47Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
Why do it now? For one thing, nothing I have done besides raising kids has been so much freaking fun. And being outside in the ocean with friends, surfing, laughing, trash talking, is wonderful too. Time stands still, all thoughts and cares disappear when surfing. The physicality of it is awesome. Learning something that is so hard is great too. The physical sensation of the drop and the ride is amazing...
No, I sill never surf as well as someone who started younger, but who the F cares? it's not a contest or a race. It's just freaking fun!
Jul 10, 2014, 08:58 PM #48Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
- Atlantic City
Jul 10, 2014, 09:13 PM #49
Here's the thing that gets to me though, I get everyone can talk in platitudes and cliches about surfing, I mean really, is there any other way to talk about it? So yeah, you feel so free, so alive, so in touch with nature, all that. But when I was a kid, I don't remember any adult beginners. Can anyone who was surfing 25 or 30 years ago confirm or deny that? The closest I remember might be some kid's dad who used to surf and got a longboard when you could get a new one again at the local shops. Like, an adult beginner wouldn't have even seemed like a possibility to me. So what has changed? Is it surf schools, wetsuit technology, softtops, what? It can just be that everyone wants to feel good now and before they didn't?
Jul 10, 2014, 09:29 PM #50
What a great tread. Props to the OP for setting it up for success by asking questions in humble fashion.
Queen mum and others are right on with their responses. According to some, when you hit ages 25-34 you are what you are and shouldn't try to innovate or improve the self. Instead, you should spend your final 40-60 years on the sidelines in obscure withdrawal from contemporary society, only wishing to know what could've been if you had gone down other avenues of life before the critical mid-30's cutoff point.
Bro, some of us out there go hard or go home no matter what we do and that includes endeavors we are embarking on for the first time. We can only commit to so much at once and contrary to what you may think, before we were surfing we were busy kicking arse in several other things, be it elite athletics, other successful work careers, and family. We've got treads out the wazoo here on SI each week depicting the "curse" of full commitment needed to develop, improve, and fully enjoy surfing on a long-term basis.
Some of us late starters soon become functional members of the lineup. Some of us have already saved one or more lives out on the water. Some of us charge 12 months a year in all conditions that some of you have never and will never choose to charge in. Some of us clean trash and debris from the break and other oceanfront on a daily basis. Some of us spread the stoke to other late starters, starters on time, and even cagey vets like yourself that are oft in need of stoke replenishment.
In a month, I'll be 1.5 years into full-time surfing. I've charged all 5 corners of the U.S. (Gulf included), from 3 second chop in EMass to 23 second 270 degree swell in SoCal. I've had the ballz beaten off my jock from Atlantic to Pacific then into Central America. As of last night in Rhodey, I'm focusing on throwing buckets in mushy chest-high waves with the intention of doing the same in SoCal in September on double-digit period waves. I'll still get my azz handed to myself with fair regularity in challenging conditions and if I'm not, it probably means I'm not challenging myself as much.
Why the hate for late-starters? Is it all because of the ones that never really get into it but that cause lineup dysfunction any time they're out there? Because we've established those are far from all of us. Maybe you're feeling envy that you've not felt a day of stoke like we do in many years. Or maybe you realize how much easier it really is for a grom to improve with their small, lightweight frame and moldable cerebellum and other motor control brain centers and you're stubbornly pissed at us for bucking the natural trend of late success. I ask you, is the skilled, yet aggro burner in the lineup better for the lineup than us? There are multiple diseases prevalent in lineups everywhere and several aren't sprung from green kookery.
To the OP: keep asking questions to lots of vets on here and outside of here. They know most all of what you need to know and when prompted in the right way (as you've seen) they are happy to help. Get max water time and quality water time on an indefinite basis. Learn everything you can about the ocean and why it acts the way it does when it does. Observe the distant formation, actions, and dissipation of major weather events online and in person before you set foot in them. Arm yourself with all the surf-specific conditioning you possibly can - there is clearly only benefit to your life and surfing that can come from this. Take great joy and gratitude in every daily experience you have with the ocean, for it is vast and plentiful and many in this world never see it, let alone on the reg. Above all else, persevere with privilege and relentless stoke and it will blow you away how far you will come in the short and mid terms.