Hey Jake you may need to look and watch the wave to judge when to paddle hard and go for the pop. Watch others from the beach and you will see it curl then crest. You should be up as it turns to white water. Feel free to contact me with any questions. Aloha Ed @ alohanycsurfschool.com
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Thread: Beginner technique questions
Jul 11, 2014, 03:58 AM #71Junior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2014
Jul 11, 2014, 08:04 AM #72Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
- barefoot bay, FL
Jul 11, 2014, 01:32 PM #73
Complaining about adults learning to surf and stretching out on a beach...talk about your first world problems.
I guess when the OP gets old he'll give up surfing rather than be forced to stretch out.
Jul 11, 2014, 05:30 PM #74
We're also a much more mobile species now. Back then it wasn't as easy to make a major move from middle America to the coast in order to follow dreams or careers. Now a few hrs. of web research and you can have all the info you need and then some. If you wanted an addreess of a CA company you had to go to the library and look it up or just get a phone # then call long distance for the info. Now 20 min typing and hit submit to spray your resume to 100 companies.
Jul 12, 2014, 01:50 AM #75
Jul 12, 2014, 02:00 AM #76
I do the kata from Karate Kid followed by no less than 12 crane kicks. If I fall, I start over.
No wayz brah! Spicoli runs straight to the peelers to start a sesh!
And in my opinion NEVER put those side bites back in again. Longboards have no need for them.
And i forgot, when paddling the top of the board logo is (in general) right about where you want your head.
Jul 12, 2014, 04:03 AM #78
[QUOTE=EmassSpicoli;248641]What a great tread. Props to the OP for setting it up for success by asking questions in humble fashion..../QUOTE]
Some good stuff in your post, Emass. Especially liked: "Take great joy and gratitude in every daily experience you have with the ocean..."
Even when one is having a frustrating sesh and feeling like a dumb, skill-less/unskilled kook, at least one's out there trying. As I've said before, getting out on the water makes a day special - even more so during wintertime with its additional challenges.
Jul 12, 2014, 07:20 AM #79
Bro, true dat. The catharsis of every winter sesh yields a bevy of stoke in every summah sesh. Never before have I seen/felt such mildness from the ocean as each duck dive these warmer months. Perhaps it was because I charged really hard all winter, perhaps it was feeling more of its wrath from being aware of its wrath. Either way, we feel differently in trunks than anyone else who wasn't rubbered to the gills in March or earlier.
To da OP - every, I mean every day you step into liquid for is capable of advancing your surf game miles. That's if you're open to its gifts and benefit. The 7-9' closeouts in heavy offshores in late May/early June gave me unreal practice on nailing takeoffs and drops getting down the line on screamers. I swear that without those reps, my bottom turns in chest to shoulder on Wednesday in Rhodey would not have been solid enough to get me back vertical to the lip to wapahhh and that's the page I'm on now. Every step is fundamental to the next. If you spend a sesh fighting like hell in one foot mush to get takeoffs them that's a sesh focused on foot placement. The next waist to chest sesh you paddle out for will be much, much more kind and enjoyable to you as a result.
Even the sessions I strap 5 mils of rubber to the back to trudge out in 42F water in 28F air with 22mph offshores in where I barely get two closeout takeoffs, I learned much from it. If it's nothing more than how to spare myself 10% less wrath the next paddle out, I grew stronger and smarter that day.
OP Bro, listen to the cagey vets of SI and grow in frothy wisdom. Whether it's the perf tide to charge Blackie's from zach or LBCrew learning you on inner rail foil of the swallow tail or capecodcdog on how to be more thankful for your daily bread or leetymike on the deeper pleasures of the single fin or metard on the deeper pleasures of the single syllable post - sit back, relax and take notes.
Anyone else on the coast sitting on a hammock under this full moon and clear sky? Spunky and spirited wahine retired for the eve an hour ago and I sent the braddahs home to theirs. But schitt man, my life is in 3D HD right now. Let's give it up to the natural world and all its greatness. Boom.
Jul 12, 2014, 04:12 PM #80
I think surfing closeouts is the best practice u can get in nj.ur making super late takeoffs and have no chance of making the wave,but if u can atleast stand up and make it to the bottom before u get sucked off then u did good for the day.making drops on closeouts will help in every hollow wave in the world.its all about commitment and just going.as fletcher once said,if u made it out the barrel u weren't deep enough