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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    sea
    Posts
    1,617
    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    But there is another side to that equation. Most guys get good surfing on the EC if they work hard at it, but inevitably, they move to different locations. Because, yeah, if you want to learn the fundamentals of surfing, the EC is a great place to do so... But you are never going to experience waves around here like that. You won't know what a 300 yard point break feels like, throwing 18 turns on the same wave and really be able to lay out insane runs all on the same wave. You can get good here, but you won't get GREAT unless you travel some. That goes for anyone, from anywhere. Its like the Brazilians. They are great at punchy beach break airs, but it took them a few years to get the style dialed in on those big points.

    But it's whatever. There is a reason Kelly left Florida as a teenager to CA, then onto HI. The hobgoods didn't get famous in Florida either. They got good there, they got GREAT around the world.

    The best surfer, in this generation that I know of from back home in Maryland, showed up in a line up next to me in SoCal about 7 years ago. I was like, hey, aren't you ***** *? He said, yeah. I said what are you doing out here. He said, I moved here. He has since moved back, but there comes a time regardless of if you are from CA or Jersey, you gotta get out and see different waves if you want to get GREAT.... And surfing heavy east coast surf, even for the pros is a humbling experience when its on. Surfing here can be just as difficult as anywhere in the world when things get heavy. You don't get out through channels with dry hair when its TOH here. You gotta work for it. And bleed for it.
    exactly what this guy said.

    also to add,where I mostly surf,it doesn't turn on unless its atleast 3 ft,anything under and its flat,not even a ripple,and when it is on its a sandsucking thick hollow barrel that will snap a board with every wave.so yea id say its harder to surf here rather than a place like cali with a million mushy little waves.but yea u aint gonna get good unless u travel.the ec is good starting grounds,but u need to get ur feet wet in different hemispheres like indo.if u surf a beachbreak all ur life then go to a long razor sharp reef like uluwatu,ur not going to do so well

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Jacksonville FL
    Posts
    489
    Occy looked like a klutz on it the other day in that heritage event
    I thought I was just me. Went back and watched that '84(?) J- Bay footage from Occumentary confirming that he didn't look good at all last week.

    When I moved to the Western Pacific I found surfing big gnarly shallow reef breaks intimidating at first. I'm no Laird, but once you get past the initial jitters it was surprising easy to surf those waves because they did the exact same thing every time while providing all the power you need with little effort. I remember my first session returning to the east coast after a couple of years... soft but 3 foot or so session at Jax Pier. It proved to be humbling. The silty water made my deck feel like it was coated in oil. When I did get my footing locked in, I habitually bogged down turns or out ran sections. Seems the only thing I could only manage was a frontside flail to fall backwards while groms did alley-opps in the shorebreak. I had to do a few secluded solo sessions to get the feel as well as some new boards. Perfection is easy ... mushy beach break is not.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    VA Beach
    Posts
    1,043
    Quote Originally Posted by tlokein View Post
    East coast surfing = blue collar surfing.

    Ya gotta work at it. Whether that means constantly paddling around to get in position, pumping and working your butt off to get the most out of a 5 sec closeout, or driving around chasing swells, ya still gotta put the work in.....
    I have to agree with that. If I just went by all the 0-1 and 1-2 ft forecasts and reports we've been seeing for VB pretty much since May, might not even try going out. I know it's been repeated here ad nauseam, but it comes down to checking out the various spots at different times for yourself.
    More than occasionally this summer I've lucked out and conditions were considerably better than forecasted or even reported. Conditions might require a lot of paddling to get situated, especially on those choppy afternoons. Sometimes it may be just a brief window of opportunity when the conditions are just right for an hour, or two at most. It can be hit or miss - especially if you're working or have other responsibilities and free time is limited. But it's worth the effort. Otherwise you might write off the entire summer and never go out.

  4. #14
    I like to compare Northeast surfing to Northeast skiing. If you live and grow up dealing with the conditions and then travel or move to places with great, consistent conditions, you'll quickly be just as good, if not better than the locals in your surf/ski paradise.

    However, if the person who grew up and lives in a place with great, consistent conditions comes and tries their hand in the northeast, they'll probably be pouting and frustrated within twenty minutes and most likely never come back.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    4,144
    I can't speak for the NE but round here I found it pretty challenging to get "good", took lots of time and effort but over time I have improved quite a bit by surfing both the Gulf (OMG it's not easy) and the E. Coast of FL. I didn't travel much until the last few years. I have since been OBX once, to PR twice (3 in Oct.), Santa Cruz most recently, and I gotta say the waves there (PR & CA) seemed a lot easier to get into and were a lot more predictable to say the least. I feel like surfing around here is kinda like swinging a weighted bat, then when I go to other places it was a lot easier than expected because of the challenges I faced back home. Now the challenge here doesn't seem so challenging these days either, only when it's really big do I find myself challenged.

  6. #16
    Good thread! I feel like a total kook on some of those sloppy crappy days and feel like KellyLairdMickMohammadAli when the surf lines up perfect. Makes sense.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Turtle Island
    Posts
    4,393
    Images
    6
    Winter

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    4,144
    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    Winter
    Mmmmm winter

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by DosXX View Post
    I have to agree with that. If I just went by all the 0-1 and 1-2 ft forecasts and reports we've been seeing for VB pretty much since May, might not even try going out. I know it's been repeated here ad nauseam, but it comes down to checking out the various spots at different times for yourself.
    More than occasionally this summer I've lucked out and conditions were considerably better than forecasted or even reported. Conditions might require a lot of paddling to get situated, especially on those choppy afternoons. Sometimes it may be just a brief window of opportunity when the conditions are just right for an hour, or two at most. It can be hit or miss - especially if you're working or have other responsibilities and free time is limited. But it's worth the effort. Otherwise you might write off the entire summer and never go out.
    Right on DosXX. Was in Wilmy last weekend, flat on Sat, woke up at 5:45AM Sunday and checked cams/fcast for DP. Clean but small peelers. Figured even if I rousted Mrs. Tlok right then I'd get about an hour before the tide killed it. Not worth waking my honey badger. I figured once the tide started dropping about and hour or two later I'd catch the same swell, maybe a little smaller. Sure enough a couple hours we were in the water and I got about 2hrs of small but clean and fun little waves.

    If I just went by the fcast I'd have skipped it. Ya just gotta get out there.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    The Blue and Green
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    458
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