also to add,where I mostly surf,it doesn't turn on unless its atleast 3 ft,anything under and its flat,not even a ripple,and when it is on its a sandsucking thick hollow barrel that will snap a board with every wave.so yea id say its harder to surf here rather than a place like cali with a million mushy little waves.but yea u aint gonna get good unless u travel.the ec is good starting grounds,but u need to get ur feet wet in different hemispheres like indo.if u surf a beachbreak all ur life then go to a long razor sharp reef like uluwatu,ur not going to do so well
Results 11 to 20 of 20
Jul 30, 2014, 01:53 AM #11
Jul 30, 2014, 02:08 AM #12Occy looked like a klutz on it the other day in that heritage event
When I moved to the Western Pacific I found surfing big gnarly shallow reef breaks intimidating at first. I'm no Laird, but once you get past the initial jitters it was surprising easy to surf those waves because they did the exact same thing every time while providing all the power you need with little effort. I remember my first session returning to the east coast after a couple of years... soft but 3 foot or so session at Jax Pier. It proved to be humbling. The silty water made my deck feel like it was coated in oil. When I did get my footing locked in, I habitually bogged down turns or out ran sections. Seems the only thing I could only manage was a frontside flail to fall backwards while groms did alley-opps in the shorebreak. I had to do a few secluded solo sessions to get the feel as well as some new boards. Perfection is easy ... mushy beach break is not.
Jul 30, 2014, 09:46 AM #13
More than occasionally this summer I've lucked out and conditions were considerably better than forecasted or even reported. Conditions might require a lot of paddling to get situated, especially on those choppy afternoons. Sometimes it may be just a brief window of opportunity when the conditions are just right for an hour, or two at most. It can be hit or miss - especially if you're working or have other responsibilities and free time is limited. But it's worth the effort. Otherwise you might write off the entire summer and never go out.
Jul 30, 2014, 08:50 PM #14
I like to compare Northeast surfing to Northeast skiing. If you live and grow up dealing with the conditions and then travel or move to places with great, consistent conditions, you'll quickly be just as good, if not better than the locals in your surf/ski paradise.
However, if the person who grew up and lives in a place with great, consistent conditions comes and tries their hand in the northeast, they'll probably be pouting and frustrated within twenty minutes and most likely never come back.
Jul 30, 2014, 10:07 PM #15
I can't speak for the NE but round here I found it pretty challenging to get "good", took lots of time and effort but over time I have improved quite a bit by surfing both the Gulf (OMG it's not easy) and the E. Coast of FL. I didn't travel much until the last few years. I have since been OBX once, to PR twice (3 in Oct.), Santa Cruz most recently, and I gotta say the waves there (PR & CA) seemed a lot easier to get into and were a lot more predictable to say the least. I feel like surfing around here is kinda like swinging a weighted bat, then when I go to other places it was a lot easier than expected because of the challenges I faced back home. Now the challenge here doesn't seem so challenging these days either, only when it's really big do I find myself challenged.
Good thread! I feel like a total kook on some of those sloppy crappy days and feel like KellyLairdMickMohammadAli when the surf lines up perfect. Makes sense.
Jul 30, 2014, 10:58 PM #17
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
Jul 31, 2014, 12:20 AM #18
Jul 31, 2014, 12:24 AM #19
If I just went by the fcast I'd have skipped it. Ya just gotta get out there.
Jul 31, 2014, 01:04 AM #20
- Join Date
- Jun 2014
- The Blue and Green