1. traveling: the places i have gone (both sides of costa rica, mex, east coast, bvi's, etc)
2. weather: i know way more than the average homeboy, cold fronts, isobars, offshore or onshore, rain, sunny, glassy, oil slick.
3. the ocean: moving over and under the energy, getting put in my place, held down, slammed, phosphorescence at night (with two naked girls btw), sea life, the smell and sand. hot or cold.
4. being salty: no shower... it's all good, slap on some deodorant and let's go. rank board shorts or wet suit.
tell me what you like, random stories from your life, etc
The anticipation......I have been layed up for a bit, and the mental froth and the pics of waves, and the stories of surf, and the promise of swell makes the interminable wait so worth it because I know the waves will be there when I am ready and I can't ****ing wait!
The smell of sticky bumps wax. It can act as a low level aphrodisiac.
Can't wax the board without getting a little "aroused". Just knowing that this contraption is going to bring me sweet joy is glorious. Looking to the future with anticipation is a feeling that's hard to beat.
metard continues to open up to us with more and more reflection and self-disclosure. Keep it up bro, you know I like words. Pretty soon you'll be battling with zach619 for longest posts. Dope list metard, I share all of those. Espec the phosphoresence with wahines, did that end of June at 4am. So choice.
Quality content from sidogg and World B. Gotta interject to hombre World B and let him know that if he starts buttering up with Mr. Zogg's then it becomes a high-level aphrodisiac similar to Spanish Fly. Why you think they call it Sex Wax, bro?
1. It prompts greatness of your being. Something that separates the average/good population from those who are great at what they do is an undying thirst for progress. The great are never truly satisfied with their standing and always seek forward advancement. Surfing is such a vast progression of skills, conditioning, knowledge, and maturity. Each sesh reminds you that there's always more to improve and the ocean constantly keeps you aware of your weaknesses since it's throwing so many variables at you on the reg. Most of the world is able to exist in their comfort zone. The great are never comfortable because they're in a perpetual state of growth and growth is the antithesis of comfort. Surfing allows you, and perhaps even compels you towards greatness - not just in surfing but in who you are. Even if you're not the competitive type and don't aspire to be a dominant surfer, it brings you closer to being great in all ways than if it weren't in your life.
2. Culture. We talk all the time here about localism, lineup hate, going years without speaking to much of anyone in lineups, but when it comes down to it, there's a sense of affiliation shared by those who are committed to surfing. The true surfer knows the gap between sampling it as an activity and then making it a part of your life. There's no real in between due to what's required of competency, access to surfable waves, etc. and all the sacrifice and commitment in even getting to that next sesh. Not every surfer will be your friend but the ones that you do become friends with may know things about you and share things with you that people you've been friends with your whole life never can or will.
3. Sense of natural order and natural law. The cultural element previously mentioned is an extension of this. There are lots of interpretations of what is good and right in our world, and those aren't always represented, protected, or defended (i.e. etiquette, respect). However, if you've got any connection to reality then you know what's right and wrong and the ocean let's us know where we stand with the physical world, with each other, and with ourselves if our awareness allows us the honesty the ocean gives us.
4. Appreciation for simplicity. It doesn't often take us much to find satisfaction, even joy. The aroma of surf wax can quickly change the tone of our day, as can seeing a sunset, stepping into sand then salt water, then planing on that moving water. In the paper chase of society, we are as anti-materialistic and disconnected as it gets when we are out back waiting for a set. Your tech devices (hopefully...) are hundreds of yards away, you may not even have a watch on. Your day will never be as peaceful as it is when you're on your board, even if you're in Nor'easter gnar, and for all of these reasons, the healing surfing gives us in all ways is unprecedented.
5. Wapahhh. I've just recently entered the universe of lip-smacking and still can't quite do it on the reg. But when I do, even if it doesn't land, I've had the privilege of unleashing the primordial beast within. You're not legally able to do that in many other ways in this world.
It's all about the inner peace I get from it. It helps me stay balanced mentally, physically, and emotionally . Like a drug that helps cope with life and it's challenges.
After a good session I have a buzz, nothing else really compares to that, great sex maybe. But hardly the same feeling, so really there is nothng else like it. You can't buy that feeling at any store, can't get it from wearing surf clothing, or having an expensive board with all the stickers, that feeling comes from tons of hard work and dedication that when it pays off and you are able to do things you use to day dream about, you look back and admire how far you've come. Then throw in all the cliche stuff about the ocean, the wild life, and environment and you got plenty to be stoke about.
I like that most people think I'm crazy for going out in conditions that the average Joe would never consider. I like that non-surfers just dont get it. I like that I DO get it. I like knowing there is a tribe of folks just like me that love doing this just as much as I do that they go to the same lengths that I go to so that I can surf every week or more often at times. I like that I still have a lot to learn but that I have learned so much already. I could go on all day, so I'll leave it at that.
Last edited by DawnPatrolSUP; Aug 1, 2014 at 03:22 AM.