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  1. #161
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Brick, NJ
    Posts
    415
    this should be an exciting one but hopefully the wind doesn't make it suck. Our bars are in really nice shape to hold the potential size.

  2. #162
    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    Is this true? I can't say I have seen too many swells on this coast anywhere near the 15 second range, but the beach breaks on the west coast can handle up to 22 second periods without a problem. Size is also a factor, as beach breaks max out a lot quicker out there than the points and reefs. But, a 6ft@18 second swell on the west coast is super fun beach break material. I mean, if you throw 12ft@22 seconds at the west coast, only a few spots (Blacks etc) can handle it, every beach break out there will max out and close out, but that is because of the overall wave size, rather than the period.

    I would assume that a long period swell would be ideal no matter where it hits. 20 seconds is always better than 10 regardless of where it is, at least I thought. Maybe one of our resident surf scientists can break that down for us a little further. I know long periods are uncommon here, but I would think my local spot down here would be epic on a 18-20 second period.
    Bro I hear all that. Surfed 23s waves in SoCal I think it was back in January. It was certainly different. I've only been in this game a few seasons but I've seen every swell that's come this way on the EC in that time whether it be a Nor'easter or what have you and 15s closes out here from what I've seen. I'm sure wind has much to go with it too, so I'd love to see 15s with 3mph winds here. The BBs here vs out there are far different in bathymetry and topography aren't they?

    Experts please chime in.

  3. #163
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Long Buried Island
    Posts
    1,100
    15 seconds on this coast for beach breaks will all but close out except for the short barrel and shoulder hoppin. Luckily this swell will only have a 15 second period for a short duration so it may not make a huge difference, regardless it should be fun here!

    Im kind of surprised that this cane is even going to produce a 15 sec period but we shall see.

  4. #164
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    sea
    Posts
    3,800
    I didn't even check the swell period,im seeing 6-8ft on most of the sites,around 4-6 at 6pm with offshore wind around 6pm right when I get out of work.dont know how the long period is going to hold,regardless im out there

  5. #165
    Spicoli is correct, because the wave is such long period it feels the bottom sooner than wind swell. When this happens the wave refracts to the shape of shoreline and because we have that darn thing called a continental shelf and gently sloping bathymetry, it gives long period swells time to wall up.

    Here is a link describing the relationship between wave height and period and celerity (wave speed). It also explains mechanisms like refraction, reflection, and diffraction.

    http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/engineering/...bs/07096/4.cfm

  6. #166
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    10,249
    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    Gotta be at points and reefs I'd think...no BB's made for that on EC per all I've learned here and elsewhere. Even still, that's super long period for us even for points/reefs.
    There are spots that will hold it down here, not every spot, but several, when winds switch it'll be pretty

  7. #167
    So how do you think this will compare to last Wednesday?

  8. Its been a little frustrating down in the Outer Banks. Persistent NorthEast winds blowing hard for the fifth day in a row. The south side has been fun at times but can only imagine how good it would be if the wind would lay down. Hopefully it will tomorrow.

  9. #169
    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    Is this true? I can't say I have seen too many swells on this coast anywhere near the 15 second range, but the beach breaks on the west coast can handle up to 22 second periods without a problem. Size is also a factor, as beach breaks max out a lot quicker out there than the points and reefs. But, a 6ft@18 second swell on the west coast is super fun beach break material. I mean, if you throw 12ft@22 seconds at the west coast, only a few spots (Blacks etc) can handle it, every beach break out there will max out and close out, but that is because of the overall wave size, rather than the period.

    I would assume that a long period swell would be ideal no matter where it hits. 20 seconds is always better than 10 regardless of where it is, at least I thought. Maybe one of our resident surf scientists can break that down for us a little further. I know long periods are uncommon here, but I would think my local spot down here would be epic on a 18-20 second period.
    Beach breaks just can't handle anything really over 12 seconds on the east coast. You can still go surf and you will feel the juice the wave quality will just suck. Some people just like saying they surfed a hurricane swell by dropping in and then getting pummeled. That's not too much fun to me. I like doing turns and getting barreled. The swells in the winter are much better in my opinion. Hurricane swells are fun in the 11s range.

  10. #170
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
    Posts
    4,780
    Images
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by barrels4liam View Post
    Beach breaks just can't handle anything really over 12 seconds on the east coast. You can still go surf and you will feel the juice the wave quality will just suck. Some people just like saying they surfed a hurricane swell by dropping in and then getting pummeled. That's not too much fun to me. I like doing turns and getting barreled. The swells in the winter are much better in my opinion. Hurricane swells are fun in the 11s range.
    Word. 9-11s today, so should be perfect based on what everyone is saying.