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  1. #171
    So how do you think this will compare to last Wednesday?

  2. Its been a little frustrating down in the Outer Banks. Persistent NorthEast winds blowing hard for the fifth day in a row. The south side has been fun at times but can only imagine how good it would be if the wind would lay down. Hopefully it will tomorrow.

  3. #173
    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    Is this true? I can't say I have seen too many swells on this coast anywhere near the 15 second range, but the beach breaks on the west coast can handle up to 22 second periods without a problem. Size is also a factor, as beach breaks max out a lot quicker out there than the points and reefs. But, a 6ft@18 second swell on the west coast is super fun beach break material. I mean, if you throw 12ft@22 seconds at the west coast, only a few spots (Blacks etc) can handle it, every beach break out there will max out and close out, but that is because of the overall wave size, rather than the period.

    I would assume that a long period swell would be ideal no matter where it hits. 20 seconds is always better than 10 regardless of where it is, at least I thought. Maybe one of our resident surf scientists can break that down for us a little further. I know long periods are uncommon here, but I would think my local spot down here would be epic on a 18-20 second period.
    Beach breaks just can't handle anything really over 12 seconds on the east coast. You can still go surf and you will feel the juice the wave quality will just suck. Some people just like saying they surfed a hurricane swell by dropping in and then getting pummeled. That's not too much fun to me. I like doing turns and getting barreled. The swells in the winter are much better in my opinion. Hurricane swells are fun in the 11s range.

  4. #174
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
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    Quote Originally Posted by barrels4liam View Post
    Beach breaks just can't handle anything really over 12 seconds on the east coast. You can still go surf and you will feel the juice the wave quality will just suck. Some people just like saying they surfed a hurricane swell by dropping in and then getting pummeled. That's not too much fun to me. I like doing turns and getting barreled. The swells in the winter are much better in my opinion. Hurricane swells are fun in the 11s range.
    Word. 9-11s today, so should be perfect based on what everyone is saying.

  5. #175
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inletsurf7 View Post
    Spicoli is correct, because the wave is such long period it feels the bottom sooner than wind swell. When this happens the wave refracts to the shape of shoreline and because we have that darn thing called a continental shelf and gently sloping bathymetry, it gives long period swells time to wall up.

    Here is a link describing the relationship between wave height and period and celerity (wave speed). It also explains mechanisms like refraction, reflection, and diffraction.

    http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/engineering/...bs/07096/4.cfm
    Nice link. Thanks.

  6. #176
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    Jan 2009
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    Wind turned offshore this morning. Light, WSW. Swell still 4.1 @ 10 seconds. Not all that big out. Looks chest to head, but all cleaned up. Not a cloud in the sky, glass out there. Should be fun here in a little bit. Gonna have to hit it as the tide is falling in a couple hours, but it looks plenty fun out there. Good luck to everyone. I am sure the swell is starting to show up in Delmarva etc.

  7. #177
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    long branch - NJ
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    50
    Quote Originally Posted by Inletsurf7 View Post

    Here is a link describing the relationship between wave height and period and celerity (wave speed). It also explains mechanisms like refraction, reflection, and diffraction.

    http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/engineering/...bs/07096/4.cfm
    Solid read. Some dense equations in there, but filled with good knowledge.

    Also, squirming in the cube today, ready to go...

  8. #178
    Quote Originally Posted by barrels4liam View Post
    Beach breaks just can't handle anything really over 12 seconds on the east coast. You can still go surf and you will feel the juice the wave quality will just suck. Some people just like saying they surfed a hurricane swell by dropping in and then getting pummeled. That's not too much fun to me. I like doing turns and getting barreled. The swells in the winter are much better in my opinion. Hurricane swells are fun in the 11s range.
    Couldnt have said this any better. Thats my perspective from a long time NJ surfer. Most of my memorable days here were in the 10-11s period.

    I will add, sometimes it pays to look at all the swell data, not just the doninant one. Some breaks wont show any long period swell, and can work as a filter, so if you have two swells running, one long period and one short, you can sometimes find a fun wave in relatively close proximity to spots that are big and closed out

  9. #179
    Join Date
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    Remember SI rule #1) There is no such thing as a close out, you are just not surfing fast enough.

  10. #180
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Atlantic City
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    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    Wind turned offshore this morning. Light, WSW. Swell still 4.1 @ 10 seconds. Not all that big out. Looks chest to head, but all cleaned up. Not a cloud in the sky, glass out there. Should be fun here in a little bit. Gonna have to hit it as the tide is falling in a couple hours, but it looks plenty fun out there. Good luck to everyone. I am sure the swell is starting to show up in Delmarva etc.
    filling in nice in so jersey...just got back from a low ag high fun sesh....more coming.