Page 18 of 28 FirstFirst ... 81617181920 ... LastLast
Results 171 to 180 of 275
  1. #171
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
    Posts
    4,780
    Images
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by Inletsurf7 View Post
    Spicoli is correct, because the wave is such long period it feels the bottom sooner than wind swell. When this happens the wave refracts to the shape of shoreline and because we have that darn thing called a continental shelf and gently sloping bathymetry, it gives long period swells time to wall up.

    Here is a link describing the relationship between wave height and period and celerity (wave speed). It also explains mechanisms like refraction, reflection, and diffraction.

    http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/engineering/...bs/07096/4.cfm
    Nice link. Thanks.

  2. #172
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
    Posts
    4,780
    Images
    26
    Wind turned offshore this morning. Light, WSW. Swell still 4.1 @ 10 seconds. Not all that big out. Looks chest to head, but all cleaned up. Not a cloud in the sky, glass out there. Should be fun here in a little bit. Gonna have to hit it as the tide is falling in a couple hours, but it looks plenty fun out there. Good luck to everyone. I am sure the swell is starting to show up in Delmarva etc.

  3. #173
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    long branch - NJ
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by Inletsurf7 View Post

    Here is a link describing the relationship between wave height and period and celerity (wave speed). It also explains mechanisms like refraction, reflection, and diffraction.

    http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/engineering/...bs/07096/4.cfm
    Solid read. Some dense equations in there, but filled with good knowledge.

    Also, squirming in the cube today, ready to go...

  4. #174
    Quote Originally Posted by barrels4liam View Post
    Beach breaks just can't handle anything really over 12 seconds on the east coast. You can still go surf and you will feel the juice the wave quality will just suck. Some people just like saying they surfed a hurricane swell by dropping in and then getting pummeled. That's not too much fun to me. I like doing turns and getting barreled. The swells in the winter are much better in my opinion. Hurricane swells are fun in the 11s range.
    Couldnt have said this any better. Thats my perspective from a long time NJ surfer. Most of my memorable days here were in the 10-11s period.

    I will add, sometimes it pays to look at all the swell data, not just the doninant one. Some breaks wont show any long period swell, and can work as a filter, so if you have two swells running, one long period and one short, you can sometimes find a fun wave in relatively close proximity to spots that are big and closed out

  5. #175
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
    Posts
    4,780
    Images
    26
    Remember SI rule #1) There is no such thing as a close out, you are just not surfing fast enough.

  6. #176
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Atlantic City
    Posts
    4,563
    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    Wind turned offshore this morning. Light, WSW. Swell still 4.1 @ 10 seconds. Not all that big out. Looks chest to head, but all cleaned up. Not a cloud in the sky, glass out there. Should be fun here in a little bit. Gonna have to hit it as the tide is falling in a couple hours, but it looks plenty fun out there. Good luck to everyone. I am sure the swell is starting to show up in Delmarva etc.
    filling in nice in so jersey...just got back from a low ag high fun sesh....more coming.

  7. #177
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Science mother****er
    Posts
    3,586
    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    Wind turned offshore this morning. Light, WSW. Swell still 4.1 @ 10 seconds. Not all that big out. Looks chest to head, but all cleaned up. Not a cloud in the sky, glass out there. Should be fun here in a little bit. Gonna have to hit it as the tide is falling in a couple hours, but it looks plenty fun out there. Good luck to everyone. I am sure the swell is starting to show up in Delmarva etc.
    Looks perfect to me right now. Glad that mush is gone. I am hoping to surf until dark this evening.

  8. #178
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Southern VA
    Posts
    47
    Images
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by CJsurf View Post
    Its been a little frustrating down in the Outer Banks. Persistent NorthEast winds blowing hard for the fifth day in a row. The south side has been fun at times but can only imagine how good it would be if the wind would lay down. Hopefully it will tomorrow.
    Yeah, I'm in Corolla and I've been here since Sunday. The winds are relentless. Hopefully it will be good Thursday am.

  9. #179
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
    Posts
    4,780
    Images
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by brewengineer View Post
    Looks perfect to me right now. Glad that mush is gone. I am hoping to surf until dark this evening.
    Maybe wait til the tide starts coming back up. Just got back. It was good, but the tide was dropping and it went from chest+ to waist high in a matter of an hour. There is still energy out there, but I would for sure wait for the tide push unless you want to log it for a bit. Wind also switched on me mid session. Went from light offshore to side/onshore. Worth it for sure, but I blew the AM tide push because I had a meeting, but looking forward for the evening. I am hoping that Cristobal sticks around for a nice, goodbye AM cleanup session, but I have a sinking feeling that there won't be much left tomorrow, despite what the forecast said. Maybe it was all the tide, but it sure felt like the surf from this one is on it's way in the wrong direction now.

  10. #180
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Charleston
    Posts
    957
    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    Maybe wait til the tide starts coming back up. Just got back. It was good, but the tide was dropping and it went from chest+ to waist high in a matter of an hour. There is still energy out there, but I would for sure wait for the tide push unless you want to log it for a bit. Wind also switched on me mid session. Went from light offshore to side/onshore. Worth it for sure, but I blew the AM tide push because I had a meeting, but looking forward for the evening. I am hoping that Cristobal sticks around for a nice, goodbye AM cleanup session, but I have a sinking feeling that there won't be much left tomorrow, despite what the forecast said. Maybe it was all the tide, but it sure felt like the surf from this one is on it's way in the wrong direction now.
    i am thinking the 4 p.m to 8 p.m tide change might be all it has left here in S.C...we will see