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  1. #201
    Quote Originally Posted by brewengineer View Post
    IOP was waist to chest. Had some great rides. It was still super drifty.
    Weird man. Surfed early this a.m. and between 3:00-4:30 at folly and it wasn't drifty at all. Killed it on the log.

  2. #202
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    VA Beach
    Posts
    1,246
    Quote Originally Posted by sisurfdogg View Post
    When I was in my 20s I never dreamed I would live this long. My Dad predicted all my friends and I would be dead by 30, so I never made plans to surf waves at this age. House money. It's all house money. Any wave from this point on is the best wave ever! Happy 59 DosXX!
    Thanks.
    I'll be back out again tomorrow. Looks like conditions may be a bit cleaner - at least in the AM. After tomorrow, it's back to the summer 1-2 ft.

  3. #203
    Meanwhile, on the west coast... http://ktla.com/2014/08/27/waves-up-...newport-beach/

    That hurricane in the pacific is bringing the juice. Sweet that both coasts are scoring

  4. #204
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    VA Beach
    Posts
    1,246
    Quote Originally Posted by hanna View Post
    a tip for older EC surfers, from an older EC surfer: surfing will never keep you in shape. ask any older surfer - it's not the surfing that keeps you in shape, it's all the other things you do to keep surfing. you just can't get enough surfing in this part of the world to develop the kind of stamina and endurance that you would from daily cardio. just my two cents...
    Tend to agree. One of the main reasons I was able to take up surfing two years ago at 57 was that I made it a priority to keep myself in fairly good shape over the years. Plus past accumulated experience being in the ocean (mostly skin diving, body surfing and swimming) certainly helped.
    This swell has been a bit of a wake up call though. Surfing the small stuff during the summer, even on a regular basis, doesn't adequately prepare one physically for when conditions occasionally get bigger and rougher - especially when age is not on your side.

  5. #205
    Can't effin wait until tomorrow. Buoys are looking unreal and wind and weather looking great. Let's hope the inevitably overcrowded lineup is fairly functional. Gonna crush it on the 5'10 tomorrow wapahhhhhhh

  6. #206
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    avon
    Posts
    229
    I wish the sun would hurry up and come up already.

  7. #207
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    wb
    Posts
    2,049
    glad i surfed wed. looking like waist high long period closeouts this am in wrightsville

  8. #208
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Science mother****er
    Posts
    2,796
    Quote Originally Posted by Gus View Post
    Weird man. Surfed early this a.m. and between 3:00-4:30 at folly and it wasn't drifty at all. Killed it on the log.
    Drifty may have been the wrong word. There was definitely a strong N-S current.

  9. #209
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Promontorium Tremendum
    Posts
    1,082
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by DosXX View Post
    Tend to agree. One of the main reasons I was able to take up surfing two years ago at 57 was that I made it a priority to keep myself in fairly good shape over the years. Plus past accumulated experience being in the ocean (mostly skin diving, body surfing and swimming) certainly helped.
    This swell has been a bit of a wake up call though. Surfing the small stuff during the summer, even on a regular basis, doesn't adequately prepare one physically for when conditions occasionally get bigger and rougher - especially when age is not on your side.
    wow, you started surfing at 57? i'm impressed. most adults can't take the beating that learning to surf entails.

  10. #210
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Promontorium Tremendum
    Posts
    1,082
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by metard View Post
    glad i surfed wed. looking like waist high long period closeouts this am in wrightsville
    dunno about WB but CB is super-fun right now. waist to chest, beautiful clean lines, very makeable. a memorable dawn patrol, for sure.