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  1. #201
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Promontorium Tremendum
    Posts
    932
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by DosXX View Post
    Know what you mean. This old man in VB has been feeling it too. I surf year-round and have been getting out quite a bit this summer; but size and rough conditions-wise, it hasn't been all that physically challenging.
    Was out Monday thru today so far. Twice today, but sessions this week have been much shorter. Wish I could last an hour. Damned embarrassing. Feel like a Sad Sack surfer. Using a different, smaller board. Getting older has some drawbacks, but I want to make it to 59 next week.
    a tip for older EC surfers, from an older EC surfer: surfing will never keep you in shape. ask any older surfer - it's not the surfing that keeps you in shape, it's all the other things you do to keep surfing. you just can't get enough surfing in this part of the world to develop the kind of stamina and endurance that you would from daily cardio. just my two cents...

  2. #202
    Quote Originally Posted by brewengineer View Post
    IOP was waist to chest. Had some great rides. It was still super drifty.
    Weird man. Surfed early this a.m. and between 3:00-4:30 at folly and it wasn't drifty at all. Killed it on the log.

  3. #203
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    VA Beach
    Posts
    1,060
    Quote Originally Posted by sisurfdogg View Post
    When I was in my 20s I never dreamed I would live this long. My Dad predicted all my friends and I would be dead by 30, so I never made plans to surf waves at this age. House money. It's all house money. Any wave from this point on is the best wave ever! Happy 59 DosXX!
    Thanks.
    I'll be back out again tomorrow. Looks like conditions may be a bit cleaner - at least in the AM. After tomorrow, it's back to the summer 1-2 ft.

  4. #204
    Meanwhile, on the west coast... http://ktla.com/2014/08/27/waves-up-...newport-beach/

    That hurricane in the pacific is bringing the juice. Sweet that both coasts are scoring

  5. #205
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    VA Beach
    Posts
    1,060
    Quote Originally Posted by hanna View Post
    a tip for older EC surfers, from an older EC surfer: surfing will never keep you in shape. ask any older surfer - it's not the surfing that keeps you in shape, it's all the other things you do to keep surfing. you just can't get enough surfing in this part of the world to develop the kind of stamina and endurance that you would from daily cardio. just my two cents...
    Tend to agree. One of the main reasons I was able to take up surfing two years ago at 57 was that I made it a priority to keep myself in fairly good shape over the years. Plus past accumulated experience being in the ocean (mostly skin diving, body surfing and swimming) certainly helped.
    This swell has been a bit of a wake up call though. Surfing the small stuff during the summer, even on a regular basis, doesn't adequately prepare one physically for when conditions occasionally get bigger and rougher - especially when age is not on your side.

  6. #206
    Can't effin wait until tomorrow. Buoys are looking unreal and wind and weather looking great. Let's hope the inevitably overcrowded lineup is fairly functional. Gonna crush it on the 5'10 tomorrow wapahhhhhhh

  7. #207
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    avon
    Posts
    137
    I wish the sun would hurry up and come up already.

  8. #208
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    wb
    Posts
    1,452
    glad i surfed wed. looking like waist high long period closeouts this am in wrightsville

  9. #209
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Science mother****er
    Posts
    2,504
    Quote Originally Posted by Gus View Post
    Weird man. Surfed early this a.m. and between 3:00-4:30 at folly and it wasn't drifty at all. Killed it on the log.
    Drifty may have been the wrong word. There was definitely a strong N-S current.

  10. #210
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Promontorium Tremendum
    Posts
    932
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by DosXX View Post
    Tend to agree. One of the main reasons I was able to take up surfing two years ago at 57 was that I made it a priority to keep myself in fairly good shape over the years. Plus past accumulated experience being in the ocean (mostly skin diving, body surfing and swimming) certainly helped.
    This swell has been a bit of a wake up call though. Surfing the small stuff during the summer, even on a regular basis, doesn't adequately prepare one physically for when conditions occasionally get bigger and rougher - especially when age is not on your side.
    wow, you started surfing at 57? i'm impressed. most adults can't take the beating that learning to surf entails.