I just passed my first year anniversary for picking up a board. I spent 4 months trying not to drown in Costa Rica until I came back to Jersey this year, bought a wet suit and can finally handle the drop and ride a decent line, still having duck issues though with my 7'6". I even cruised down to North Carolina, found some decent breaks along with clean water and nearly set up shop with my tent on the outer banks before coming back to Jersey, Bertha formed and I thought this was what surfing on the East coast was gonna be like, dig it.
But that what was weeks ago. A wave today may as well just be a dream I had that led me to surfing, I don’t even know if was real, I only have the dings on my board to prove it. I mean nothing on the East Cosast? Since the last decent surf day I’m depressed and drinking more and playing way too much online poker while eating bacon. So am I kook? But you know what I’ll be an F-ing Kook and drop in on anybody’s wave in a second because that then means there are waves.
At midnight tonight, everybody dance and pray or whatever needs to be done for waves…Is there some sort of ritualistic sacrifice that works? WTF!