It seems like saturday is going to be a total washout in the southern parts of dirty jerz.. but maybe rideable early morning. And if the forecasts are right, sunday looks like its gonna be the best surf in a long time...maybe ill bust a nut all over the atlantic. Any thoughts?
Yes, the Sunday Outlook looks nothing short of Excellent right now. It will be a mix of both increasing Ike swell and fading Hanna swell. It will be interesting to see how these swells mix. Time to get mentally prepared.
the paddle out could be tiring huh? Question: When two separate swells mix what is the usual trend? When they piggyback does the swell size change or just power? like if a 5ft mixes with a 8 ft swell, what would the size be? 8? 13? or somewhere inbetween. I'm talking about hypothetical single swell and single swell. Does that make sense?
And long period swells close out more because they shoal up more parallel to the beach?
Also, why are long period swell affected so much more than tides?
I know it's kinda late so if you want to answer those tomorrow, that's cool. I appreciate the answers though.
The energy of the long period swells goes deeper into the ocean, and so the depth of the water (influenced by tides) is much more influential on these longer period swells. The higher tide is generally better for long period swells, because this allows less of the energy to dissipate offshore. Make sense?
I recall a swell I think was 9 years ago when we had storms lined up further out - we had chest high waves all week and then sunday morning with a hurricane ne of us and one se of us at about equal distance we had 2' overhead a-frame barrels w/no wind for dawn patrol, I still think those were some of the best waves I've ever surfed.
Any chance therse two combining swells could give us more defined peaks ?