Not on purpose, and provided you don't get hurt.
Not on purpose, and provided you don't get hurt.
i appreciate a good thrashing. its part of the game. there's is nothing that gets your mind more in the present, then getting eaten by a wave.
yeah, it's like everything's so real, of course, I've never been barreled before so I don't know what that feels like... so wipingout is the"cool" thing for know until I can get barreled
A cool thing for you would be a dictionary.Originally Posted by ledzepfreak
Seriously, took a spill on some head high junk on Monday and it was actually a pretty good rush...made me appreciate oxygen.
dictionary?
Eating s*** gets me pumped up. Especially if it's the set wave with the beautiful barrel that closes out. I swear to baby jesus, if science and plastic surgeons ever find a way to put gills on humans I'm gettin a set!
At one point, whenever I wiped out I would have a mental flash of a bikini clad girl. Don't know why. It made a nice ending to a wave though.
I took a pretty intense nose dive last saturday. The ones when you just stand up drop, nose gets caught you get shot down into the water, wave crashes make you roll around while you're body is under immense pressure, and the you come up like nothing happened. And chuckle to yourself.
A good thrashing is what body surfing big waves is all about
love it.
except when i try to pull into everything i can and end up with a nine foot board and fin flying around me
i also disliked having the side rail of my nose catche me under my jaw on one of these close outs (bertha barrels)
i recall this particular wave and still feel that it was worth it...
anyone have any advice on living with a cracked molar? don't think my fam can afford to pay for it right now. it doesn't hurt or bother me really...
Last edited by beagleagle; Sep 17, 2008 at 12:18 AM.
Reply With Quote
