Eating s*** gets me pumped up. Especially if it's the set wave with the beautiful barrel that closes out. I swear to baby jesus, if science and plastic surgeons ever find a way to put gills on humans I'm gettin a set!
I took a pretty intense nose dive last saturday. The ones when you just stand up drop, nose gets caught you get shot down into the water, wave crashes make you roll around while you're body is under immense pressure, and the you come up like nothing happened. And chuckle to yourself.