i've never ridden waves this size before so it was definitely an experience, had a lot of fun though.
sunday was in no way overhyped. made the trip down early morning just in time to catch it glassy for about two hours. worth every cent in gas. the occasional over head was killer too. 76th st in OC had some nice sets. a pleasant surprise.
Left DC Club @ 2:30 Am to go home and pack
Woke up Brother, left my house at 3:45 Am to drive to my place in Bethany
Got to my place around 6 Am - made it to the beach and in the water by 6:30.
Waves were plentiful and I def had a blast. Even after the winds picked up and I decided to bodysurf for a while.
It just enough to hold me over for January when I get back to Hawaii, and the much sought after Waimea Bay sessions .
Global Surf Talk
Surfboards and Surfboard Design
Weather and Surf Forecasting
Non Surf Related
Mexico / Central America