Man, this morning looked nice! Waist high long lefts. I saw the cams and thought I should get on it but needed to get my son on the bus. By the time I could get out the wind was picking up NE and the tide was high. Still looks good right now even with the chop.
This morning wasn't bad, but it was a long way from stellar as well. I got out at 8:30 and the tide was moving toward high very quickly. The wind was West/NW for about an hour or so and by high tide the wind had come around due North. Size was waist high, VERY north swell and still a long wait between sets. Because of the tide it was rather mushy, but good enough for two or three turns/ fades. Not enough juice for a real cutback.
I suspect that the current northerly swell direction may mix things up with the storm coming from the south tomorrow, and the predicted Easterly swell will likely close out as usual. As for Sunday, it's on autopilot. And oh yeah, the water is still quite warm, but the air is not.
Last edited by MDSurfer; Sep 19, 2008 at 03:24 AM.