according to the swell info surf report there will be rough waves all week
hopefully it changes.
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Thread: rough surfing ALL week?
Sep 21, 2008, 11:32 AM #1
rough surfing ALL week?
yeah, it stinks. Right now I would rather have perfect glassy waist high's than blown-out head's. Also the paddle out is a lot harder... especially if you have a cold
Sep 21, 2008, 05:39 PM #3
thats what im saying.
i have this entire week off from school.
watch it will clean up on saturday and sunday and every surfer in town will be there.
Sep 21, 2008, 06:13 PM #4
that will probably happen.
Sep 21, 2008, 07:16 PM #5Member
- Join Date
- May 2008
if you know where to go this week, then it will not b choppy. and if u dont, then ur a kook.
Sep 21, 2008, 09:00 PM #6
Sep 21, 2008, 10:38 PM #7Junior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
- Topsail Island
man, have you ever heard of GOOGLE EARTH???? or a map????? know the swell direction, and the wind direction, and go where its all gonna line up. you dont need some one to tell you, just fiqure it out for your self. all of yous
Sep 22, 2008, 02:33 AM #8
Are you cereal?
Please help me!
I can't figure anything out myself. I'm sorry but I have no critical thinking skills. Where is the best place to surf and when?
Sep 22, 2008, 03:09 AM #9
this year ive been trying to pay attention and be aware of conditions down at the beach on things like tides, how a spot works rising or falling, affects of wind on the surface- direction and strength, (temporary) positions of sandbars, swell directions.... trying to get a feeling of our environment. ive been surfing almost everyday so its nice to try to get in rythm. no more dawn patrols before classes soon though.. dunno what im gonna do
the other day i drew a compass rose, held it over a map of the beach on my computer monitor (so it would be positioned correctly north and south) and traced the coast thru the center of the rose. i think it helps put wind direction in perspective a little. try looking at a map of the coast like someone mentioned earlier.
wind equals waves- the more distance the wind gets to travel over water the more momentum it gives the water before the swell and wind gets here. this is called fetch- the distance a wind can blow over water.
an example of this: offshore winds make it so glassy because there is such a small amount of water being blown over before it reaches the lineup that it does not stir much water, while an onshore wind or sideshore will produce more chop due to the larger amount of fetch.
as far as where to surf- look for where it is lining up better of breaking more consistantly on a higher tide maybe. 50 yards away will break while where your sitting may be too deep, or ttoo shallow and closing out. get experience and learn what to look for. pay attention to the way a spot breaks with big waves and with little waves.
like surfing it will come eventually thru perseverance and patience and understanding, and is best taught to yourself by yourself.
Last edited by beagleagle; Sep 22, 2008 at 03:27 AM.
Sep 22, 2008, 08:13 PM #10Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
Thanks for the surf forecasting 101. You sound like a narrator for a how to surf video..So your starting to figure out how the ocean works around here eh? The combination of fluvial geomorphology, oceanography, climatology and atmospheric sciences will make and ass out of you and me every single year along the southeast coast. It will drive you nuts too look into it too much, however you can learn alot. The one thing that stays constant is those exposed breaks( ex. WB-C Street, Hatteras-S Turns, St, Aug-2nd Light, etc). ALWAYS get swell when there is a swell and hold it much longer, it has been that way for decades and is always the case. Accretion and erosion are the two major elements along southeast coast and occ. after much patience and study of this you can pinpoint some bars better than others on certain swells, swell direction, wind, etc. Otherwise you can find yourself running in circles.