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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    in a van down by the river
    Posts
    21

    Arrow Are you cereal?

    Please help me!
    I can't figure anything out myself. I'm sorry but I have no critical thinking skills. Where is the best place to surf and when?
    Thanks
    Turtle

  2. #12
    this year ive been trying to pay attention and be aware of conditions down at the beach on things like tides, how a spot works rising or falling, affects of wind on the surface- direction and strength, (temporary) positions of sandbars, swell directions.... trying to get a feeling of our environment. ive been surfing almost everyday so its nice to try to get in rythm. no more dawn patrols before classes soon though.. dunno what im gonna do

    the other day i drew a compass rose, held it over a map of the beach on my computer monitor (so it would be positioned correctly north and south) and traced the coast thru the center of the rose. i think it helps put wind direction in perspective a little. try looking at a map of the coast like someone mentioned earlier.

    wind equals waves- the more distance the wind gets to travel over water the more momentum it gives the water before the swell and wind gets here. this is called fetch- the distance a wind can blow over water.

    an example of this: offshore winds make it so glassy because there is such a small amount of water being blown over before it reaches the lineup that it does not stir much water, while an onshore wind or sideshore will produce more chop due to the larger amount of fetch.

    as far as where to surf- look for where it is lining up better of breaking more consistantly on a higher tide maybe. 50 yards away will break while where your sitting may be too deep, or ttoo shallow and closing out. get experience and learn what to look for. pay attention to the way a spot breaks with big waves and with little waves.

    like surfing it will come eventually thru perseverance and patience and understanding, and is best taught to yourself by yourself.
    Last edited by beagleagle; Sep 22, 2008 at 03:27 AM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by fishinwitha510 View Post
    self taught bhah. any how. look for a south, or sw facer that withh have N ortherly, to NE winds, thats the main thing. the swell will wrap in if its big enough. frisco in the obx is the best bet.
    See, wasn't that easy. You didn't have to tell people where to go, but you help them to know how to find it. Makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside doesn't it?

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by beagleagle View Post
    this year ive been trying to pay attention and be aware of conditions down at the beach on things like tides, how a spot works rising or falling, affects of wind on the surface- direction and strength, (temporary) positions of sandbars, swell directions.... trying to get a feeling of our environment. ive been surfing almost everyday so its nice to try to get in rythm. no more dawn patrols before classes soon though.. dunno what im gonna do

    the other day i drew a compass rose, held it over a map of the beach on my computer monitor (so it would be positioned correctly north and south) and traced the coast thru the center of the rose. i think it helps put wind direction in perspective a little. try looking at a map of the coast like someone mentioned earlier.

    wind equals waves- the more distance the wind gets to travel over water the more momentum it gives the water before the swell and wind gets here. this is called fetch- the distance a wind can blow over water.

    an example of this: offshore winds make it so glassy because there is such a small amount of water being blown over before it reaches the lineup that it does not stir much water, while an onshore wind or sideshore will produce more chop due to the larger amount of fetch.

    as far as where to surf- look for where it is lining up better of breaking more consistantly on a higher tide maybe. 50 yards away will break while where your sitting may be too deep, or ttoo shallow and closing out. get experience and learn what to look for. pay attention to the way a spot breaks with big waves and with little waves.

    like surfing it will come eventually thru perseverance and patience and understanding, and is best taught to yourself by yourself.
    Y

    Thanks for the surf forecasting 101. You sound like a narrator for a how to surf video..So your starting to figure out how the ocean works around here eh? The combination of fluvial geomorphology, oceanography, climatology and atmospheric sciences will make and ass out of you and me every single year along the southeast coast. It will drive you nuts too look into it too much, however you can learn alot. The one thing that stays constant is those exposed breaks( ex. WB-C Street, Hatteras-S Turns, St, Aug-2nd Light, etc). ALWAYS get swell when there is a swell and hold it much longer, it has been that way for decades and is always the case. Accretion and erosion are the two major elements along southeast coast and occ. after much patience and study of this you can pinpoint some bars better than others on certain swells, swell direction, wind, etc. Otherwise you can find yourself running in circles.

  5. #15
    thanks for the compliment man.also as i sarcastically and pessimistically predicted, it looks like it will be rough all week and clean up this weekend. friday could be awesome though. saturday even more so but it will naturally be more crowded.
    Last edited by beagleagle; Sep 23, 2008 at 01:43 AM.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Posts
    236
    My best remedy for crowds, if you can do it, is to just go all day. Get there in the morning before most people get up on Saturday, surf for a few hours, go grab some lunch or rest on the beach, and then go out again. Keep an eye out for when the lineup gets sparce and just in until it gets busy again.

  7. #17
    AHH!!! The swell forecast is bugging me out. Clean conditions keep getting pushed further and further away.

    Swell Info- you are breaking my heart.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    wb and you can find me at crystal and sweetwater and all over wb.
    Posts
    1,538
    Quote Originally Posted by beagleagle View Post
    AHH!!! The swell forecast is bugging me out. Clean conditions keep getting pushed further and further away.

    Swell Info- you are breaking my heart.
    they're breaking my heart too dont worry we still have 3 more days to go it can all change as the week gets closer to the end.

  9. #19
    seems like the majority of the people in the se forum are a bunch of kooks... and for those of you who knew where to go, well its been fun as hell...and should continue to be for the next few days, get ya some.

  10. #20
    Yeah, 4-5 foot at Hilton Head my arse, the reports that come from there are funny everytime I read it..My guess is it is scraping the minimum at hatteras right? What a joke

    Here is how you call it bud: http://www.wblivesurf.com/

    No way it was double the size of the washout down that way with the storm way offshore of WB, also the same size of Manasquan Inlet, NJ..

    Measure it from the back... Before others waist gas getting there.
    Last edited by bfloyd; Sep 25, 2008 at 12:07 AM.