over the years that i have been surfing i have taken notice that most short boarders have a horrible attitude whenever they are in the water. every time im out in a mix of people, longboarders are usually the ones with a smile on their face, not because they catch more waves, but in general they are just happier. they always seem to have conversations going and usually greeting others as they enter the water. i just think its strange.
but...not everyone surfs to be happy. surfing is something built out of pure selfish enjoyment. but someones enjoyement might shredding the lip off a clean face or punting an air or riding a nose. so mentally they prepare for that with the proper attitude needed. example; if I am surfing some big dumps, I am not going to be smiling and playing patty cake with my brother. im paddling for position and mentally preparring for my next wave that can and will eventually break my board or me. but i enjoy it that way. so surfing is all about the influence it has had on you. there is sport in surfing but mainly its performance and art. everyone should perform differently and independently otherwise we would all sing Barney's "I love you, you love me" song and that would be pretty weird. so when you are in the lineup and someone doesn't want to laugh and joke and chat with you, it might be because they are in the water for the sake of the water itself. dig it?
shortboarding usually gets me angry cause ill catch a rail or the wave will just try to kill me. that pisses me off. 1 because i screwed up a great wave that i knew i could get, 2 because i might have chose the wrong wave.
longboarders seem more happy cause thats their style. laid back enjoying the ride. shortboarding is about pumping up ur speed, smacking lips and trying to get air. much more demanding.
ohh remember we were all kooks at one point. probably smarter kooks but kooks none the less