Just got out from a quick session... went out at noon, offshore, big, barreling, perfection. seems to be cleaning up by the minute, still a good bit of sideshore, but nothing to hard to handle, and worth everyone you take on the head. Hope it holds up for saturday! Go get um.
The waves werent even that good. I mean if u enjoy paddling more than u actually enjoy surfing than its perfection. I'm ready for the East Coast to even try to have something on the West coast. Can't even hold 8 ft without pitching all over the place
this particular system delt a lot of current with it... however, there def. are days when it gets big and manageable on the open beach breaks. When the swell direction is a very steep direction (form the S or N for east facers), then thats when you get the most current.
The west coast primarily encounters swells with systems well offshore that deal long period swells and dont create the nearshore current.