
Originally Posted by
steamfed
I was born in Santa Cruz county but raised in north Jersey... so I'd say I'm familiar with waves on both coasts. California definitely has the consistent swell going and pretty much all the major metropolitan areas are right on the coast. You can go have a good session whenever you please, really... as long as you have a nice quiver built up.
The east coast... I would take a clean hurricane or noreaster swell over clean combo swell here any day. The waves in the Atlantic are much more glassy and tend to wall up over the sand and it makes for fast, intense drops and BARRELS. If it's one thing about surfing NJ or NC that I remember most is how freakin hollow it gets when it's good. Crowds are more sparse, the vibe is much cooler in the lineup, and yes east coasters are way more passionate about their waves. They come around so rarely and when they do everyone shares them and has a good time... not like that out here. When it gets good, the local crowd will flip everyone else off that they don't recognize.
So basically I'd have to say on a day-to-day basis I prefer to live in California where I can surf whenever I want and the weather is always pleasant. But on the other hand, the things that are gnarly out here (douchebag locals in the lineup, crowded take-off zones, lots of beginners, etc) the east coast lacks. Living in NC I really didn't mind driving 2 hours to get to the beach because when I got there I was stoked to find clean waves almost all to myself and it wasn't uncommon for me to be in the water for 4-6 hours without even realizing it. People talk to each other in the lineups and it was normal to go out for a beer with a stranger after it got dark. Out here there's definitely more kooks and bullsh.t to deal with. Although yes someone said it before the west coast caters to surfers while the east coast does not.
It's a toss-up I guess... if you like to surf every day then you want to be next to the Pacific. But if you're in it more for that satisfying feeling you get after it's been flat for a month and then it blows up to 4-6 ft heaven then the Atlantic is the place to be. I like to surf daily so I'm here now... but hell if the east coast was consistent at all I'd certainly rather be back in NJ with the majority of my friends and family.