well, I suppose I need to rethink my wave height judgement. like I said, I surf with hawaiians that say overhead surf is 3 foot, and I disagree. so I guess im wrong. but a basketball rim is 10 feet hish and I surf waves twice that high every winter it feels like.
like I said, once I get the video I will put it up. I am narrating it. I see the set coming like 1 full minute before it came. I was standing above the cove, waitint for it to calm down and the set sucked up every inch of water from bird **** to no surf and broke what looked to be 400yards outside the already ridiculously far lineup. that waves I filmed were un surfable. but only because the current and distance was so far off the lineup. I **** u not.
and I remember that swell that parked directly west of us for a week. they hadpictures of blacks with those helicopters. the **** was massive. it was overhead for the ntire month of january. u must remember that. 2006 I think. they saif it was the biggest in 10 years. looked liked indicators held up.
but ****, maybe I need to stick to hawaiian rules and say doh is 4 foot. I dunno.
i know about the canyon. But, blacks is sand. It doesn't stack up as tall. It gets big and probably more powerful than any other wave in socal. But ive never seen a photo of blacks bigger than a few days ive seen indicators. Those reefs make that wave stand straight up with huge open faces. Its not a barrel machine like blacks.
Biggest photo ive ever seen of blacks was the one in surfshot a few years ago when that helicopter was flying over. It put the size of the massive wave into perspective.
but hey, ive never surfed blacks over like 12 feet. So, i am no eye witness. I am an eye witness on the cliffs. But like my previous post said, I could be crazy.
But even with a deep water canyon, it breaks in the sand. Nothing to slow that freight train down. That why we all love it.
Just curious how you guys from Cali view the East Coast.A few issues ago surfing magazine did a piece on Jersey.What ya guys think?
I was born in Santa Cruz county but raised in north Jersey... so I'd say I'm familiar with waves on both coasts. California definitely has the consistent swell going and pretty much all the major metropolitan areas are right on the coast. You can go have a good session whenever you please, really... as long as you have a nice quiver built up.
The east coast... I would take a clean hurricane or noreaster swell over clean combo swell here any day. The waves in the Atlantic are much more glassy and tend to wall up over the sand and it makes for fast, intense drops and BARRELS. If it's one thing about surfing NJ or NC that I remember most is how freakin hollow it gets when it's good. Crowds are more sparse, the vibe is much cooler in the lineup, and yes east coasters are way more passionate about their waves. They come around so rarely and when they do everyone shares them and has a good time... not like that out here. When it gets good, the local crowd will flip everyone else off that they don't recognize.
So basically I'd have to say on a day-to-day basis I prefer to live in California where I can surf whenever I want and the weather is always pleasant. But on the other hand, the things that are gnarly out here (douchebag locals in the lineup, crowded take-off zones, lots of beginners, etc) the east coast lacks. Living in NC I really didn't mind driving 2 hours to get to the beach because when I got there I was stoked to find clean waves almost all to myself and it wasn't uncommon for me to be in the water for 4-6 hours without even realizing it. People talk to each other in the lineups and it was normal to go out for a beer with a stranger after it got dark. Out here there's definitely more kooks and bullsh.t to deal with. Although yes someone said it before the west coast caters to surfers while the east coast does not.
It's a toss-up I guess... if you like to surf every day then you want to be next to the Pacific. But if you're in it more for that satisfying feeling you get after it's been flat for a month and then it blows up to 4-6 ft heaven then the Atlantic is the place to be. I like to surf daily so I'm here now... but hell if the east coast was consistent at all I'd certainly rather be back in NJ with the majority of my friends and family.
Sounds like both coasts have its pros and cons.I agree on a couple things.Some towns can give you a ticket just for changing your wetsuit.They are a little uptight.For the most part it sounds like the lineup is a little more chill in the East.I dont know how chilly the water gets in Cali but I feel on the East Coast it does take alot of passion to surf in some cold water.Its one thing to surf in 45 degree water then add in the temp and the wind chill and it could make for a pretty short session.It sounds like you guys have the waves like every day for the most part which is in your favor.Just curious how your water quality is .I hear parts of Cali are pretty bad.
water temp never drops below 55F in san diego county. and that's cold for the locals here. normally it hovers around 60F for a good portion of the year and in the really hot months it will get around 70F.
as for water quality - when it rains, the sewers drain into the ocean here, not into inland lakes like many places on the east coast. so after a good downpour the water gets pretty filthy near rivermouths and drain pipes. you can escape the filth though, i was talking to someone else about this in another thread...
for example, the SD river dumps out here in OB and it makes for filthy water in OB and MB. there's another rivermouth in del mar. but in between, like north PB or bird rock or windansea or la jolla, maybe torrey pines, the water still looks pretty clean even after heavy rains. there's also people that will surf in the filth but you can get sick easily... it's not uncommon to have a runny nose or a bad cough after a substantial session. definitely worth the effort to get in cleaner water around LJ or further south down sunset cliffs from where i live. so basically don't let people scare you when they say the water is toxic after rain... in some places it is, in others definitely not. just see for yourself it's really obvious if you look at the sea.