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  1. #1
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    Jul 2008
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    Sorry to sound like a kook but...

    What makes waves peel. Why don't they just always closeout? NOT that I want them to, it's just been nagging my mind. Is it the angle of the swell? Or ocean floor?

  2. #2
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    Mar 2008
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    big raymond peels kooks

  3. Yeah like a bannana and then smashes them!!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Myrtle Beach, SC
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    the ocean floor man....sandbars, reefs, points and all that. Thats why tides play such a huge factor. Wind, Swell Direction (the way the wave is hitting the reef or bar) is very important in reef and point breaks as well

  5. #5
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    I think I forgot I knew that

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Wrightsville Beach
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enjoytheslide View Post
    the ocean floor man....sandbars, reefs, points and all that. Thats why tides play such a huge factor. Wind, Swell Direction (the way the wave is hitting the reef or bar) is very important in reef and point breaks as well
    It's clear with a reef or point, but what about a normal beach break? What of those factors makes the peak of the wave become the peak and throw before the rest of the wave?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by wb/pirate surfer View Post
    yeah like a bannana and then smashes them!!!
    yah yah yah yah

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    The process is called refraction. When the wave approaches the shoreline at an angle, the part of the wave closest to the shore feels the bottom first and gets slowed down (this part of the wave is going to break first), while the rest of the wave is moving faster and then bends towards the coast and breaks down the line.

    So, if your beach faces E, and the wave faces S, then the wave generally will break from south to north down the line.

    When a wave approaches the shoreline at a perpendicular angle, that is often when the beachbreaks will close out, because there is little refraction.

  9. #9
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    ok, that's what I was guessing

  10. #10

    In a word, WIND!

    Just because ur dumb doesnt make you a KOOK. But since you had to ask that question, I'm pretty confident in believing you are!