To add: You are probably trying to use too much rail in your turn--common short boarder new to long boarding mistake. Right on takeoff the board is not planing, so your inside rail will stick and pull the nose down. Think of using the tail as more of a pivot point, put way more weight back there than you would on a short board on your bottom turn, whip the nose around then shift your weight to set the rail and trim it out.
Also, moving the fin farther back will make it harder to pivot the board. So, take out the thruster side fins and put a larger 8-9" slotted fin all the way forward in the fin box. I personally have never liked a thruster setup on long boards.
I put wax on the edges of all my boards for the duck dive and mostly for grabbing the rail when I'm tucking. good for some takoffs Hate to slip off on those good waves! Sometimes I just paddle hard and punch through. somtimes I get off to the side of the board and punch the nose through then jump back on as quick as possible afer the wave has passed.
Definately sit farther outside and paddle past. going at an angle makes a huge difference. Getting in before the wave breaks means your in total charge and can drop in anyway you want especially if your already at an angle. And ya, sit back a little there'll be tie to run to the nose or where ever the waves requests
It really depends on the wave you are droping into . If its a steep fast wave then you have to lay back a little bit farther than you normally would . If the wave is kinda small of lacks power I usually sit a bit forward to give myself that extra little weight to drop my self into the wave. One thing you must look at is you pop up. It should be all in one motion and done exactly when you feel the board start to go on the momentum of the wave
I always wax the rails around the nose of my longboard just so I can hang on to it when I turn over. This works well up to about 8 foot waves. I also let my body sink down straight and pull my head tight against underside of the board so that my body acts as a sea anchor and I dont get pulled along forever. Happy surfin'!
...also a noserider pearls more easily than a HP because it has less rocker. That's why a noserider will eat up mush but will be a struggle in dumpy surf. It can be frustrating. CB is known for that. If all you ride is a longboard I would say have one of each [a NR & a HP] otherwise take a shorter board out in the steeper stuff, IMO...
i think that your problem may be that when you pop up to stand, you are too far forward on the board, the increased weight up front is causing the pearl. focus on getting on your feet farther back on the deck of the board - when you're on particularly bigger (or more hollow) waves, it sometimes almost feels like you need to be standing right on top of the skeg!
Exactly..... I did the same thing first few times on a log. You really have to think about your placement on the board. Keep it to the rear till you become more familiar with how the boards moves with your weight.