think we all go through this when surfing a shortboard for 10-20 years then trying to pick up one of these logs; my problem was staying to far inside then getting creamed on take off, but you just experimnet with it and eventually will find the sweet spot on the board and how far outside to sit in the lineup...... good thing is that you have the right of way, especailly right on the peak
On another note does anybody have some advice on the duckdives: I've got the whole role the board upside down then pull it under the wave... my only problem is when I'm under the wave sometimes I lose my grip on the board beacuse the sides are slippery ( new expoxy) is there anything I can do to help me get a better grip??? maybee
put some wax there??