
Originally Posted by
xgen70
Well....it seems like a stupid topic. Just trying to start the Poop in a random kind of way, about much of nothing. But like others, a sensible reply is not uncalled for and is a good way to draw conclusions about ones character.
I for one truly feel that Long Boards are in fact top of the food chain,... when we speak of using devices to surf a wave. I have respect for all types of devices as long as the rules are followed and others have respect for my choice of devices or no device at all for that matter.
But I really have to say that in the hands of a knowledgeable and skilled waterman, the use of a long board actually takes on a grace and art form that just can not be achieved with other devices.
If you actually knew anything and have seen anything,.. like a long board in the hands of a skilled surfer in large conditions, then maybe you would understand. Around the Delmarva, I can think of no more then ten, at the most? maybe a little less,...who are even able to use a long board in large hollow conditions. Of those, maybe only one or two are UNDER 40. Truth of the matter is, you really should feel lucky if you are able to surf around someone with skill over the age of 40.....those guys rock, and you should hope that you are able to even make it to that age group and still have the love and drive in you eye the way they do. Sure there are plenty of plus 40's that suck ass and get in the way, but that is so true about many anyway....regardless of what they try to ride out there.
I can not put a precise date on it, but there was a Surfline Video of some guy riding a LOG from what looked like, almost third reef PIPELINE,...he was on it for sure the whole way from second reef,...anyway the guy just Played with the face the whole way and set up for the most deep first reef bomb gut that you could think was even make-able. i mean the guy was so out in front the whole time, but sat down and could not have been in more control and deep as possible,...man so unreal. No way! No way, you could have done that on some short board. And the whole while the dude was so chill and kicked back, like I said, Top Of The Food Chain Bro. <<<<and those are the same guys that can go out on ankle biters and put on clinics>>>>art form for sure.
Really, if that is how you feel about the long boards you should just give up surfing.