"Bustin Down the Door" is a must-see for anyone interested in the birth of the modern pro surf tour. Its a documentary so there is a lot of talk, but the ample in-water archival footage from the mid 70's is surprisingly sharp. The dynamic between the mellow Hawaiians and the cocky, upstart Aussies and South Africans keeps it interesting (especially when the not-quite-so-mellow "black shorts" [Da Hui] enter the picture). B+
"One California Day" is also a nice vid to keep you stoked especially if you're a logger (all Cali locations - up and down the coast). Tons of great footage with commentary from some of the best surfers from yesterday and today. Also B+.
Both movies have great soundtracks (unless you're into metal/hardcore).
Another great must-see documentary for (not-so-ancient) history buffs like me (or anyone with an appreciation for the roots of the fun stuff we all love) is "Dogtown and Z-Boys". If you haven't seen it then make it a priority. Stacy Peralta's (Riding Giants) award winning biopic about the Zephyr skateboard team and the origins of "extreme" sports. Another great (70's classic rock) soundtrack. A
I really like Clay Marzo, Just Add Water for the same reasons that were posted earlier. Also, I love most of the Drive Thru Series. Some of course are better than others, and some are a bit on the short side.
I absolutley love this movie. Just got from a trip to cardiff and this movie makes it all come real. There is a great incorporation of the older guys histories ie. greg noll, yater, hobie and so on. It travels up the coast of california breaking it down into 7 different areas with a few surfers focused on in each. It is lengthy but man the surfing in it is great as well.
Bustin' Down the Door is also a must see for any surfer, i agree with that to the fullest.
Its basically about Turner and 2 of his friends who goes to indo and have some local fisherman drop them off at some desolate island. totally roughing it, in hope of finding untouched dredgers for themselves
Seriously this movie is epic a must see. In my opinion it defines surf trips, roughing it with your friends living in total isolation with a couple of your friends, with no one dropping in and waves are abundant!