allow me to recount a story from last summer. I was at atlantic beach, nc and the waves were tiny, but with it being summer and hot, I paddled out anyway. Even for the tiny waves, it was breaking reeeeeeally far out. The only board i had with me was my shortboard so i figured id be in for a ****ter of a session. When i paddled out, i was, naturally, the only one out. It was the first time ive ever really noticed how quiet it is out in the water. The only noise was the sound of my arms stroking through the water and my breathing. Even though the beach was packed, it felt like no one was around, and that feeling is very purifying. Made me think of surfing in an entirely different way.
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Thread: You Know What's Awesome?
Jan 8, 2009, 11:29 PM #11Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- WB: C-street and Mase and Sweetwater and all sorts of chill places around WB. Its rad.