yeah, I think people who say they aren't afraid of sharks either don't surf a lot or have never seen one while surfing.
everyone says, well it is the ocean, what do u expect. no one and I mean no one wants to be around sharks. ever.
I surfed my favorite reef with just one friend last spring. as we paddled out we saw about 20 leapord sharks feeding off the reef. the biggest ones were only 6 or 7 feet long. they all feed on the reef for a full hour. we were hopping off our waves right next to them the whole session.
two days later, a guy 20 miles north of here was killed by an 18 foot great white.
so, u can be "one with nature" one with god, but u don't want to see sharks out there period.
we go out and hunt and eat shark. I see shark meat in every store out here. we invaded their home a long time ago, and us humans have to deal with it.
i went out to the oc shoals ona regular basis last summer cause my friends worked at less than legit jetski rental company so we would just close shop early if there were waves and head out there and jump waves for a bit. ive never seen a shark in oc and i have surfed here my whole life, however my friends are always claiming to see fins.
one thing i do know is that if i ever surfed the shoals there is no way in hell i would sit out there in the water and wait for a wave. its way too sketchy, and anyone who says they arent afriad of sharks, please go sit 1/2 mile+ offshore in murky ass water and try to catch a wave there, you WILL be afraid.
not to mention the waves break in a million different places and since there is no close shoreline/buildings/dunes you have no point of reference as to where you are, or where the current is taking you