- A couple of very close calls to the eyes and nuts - thankfully no real damage
phew me too. thank god hah.
ive gotten pretty good at saving myself some injuries just by bailing correctly or watching it, but one time i ate it hard dropping in and got launched. i put my arms over my head cause i fell forward and assumed my board was heading straight towards me. well, the tip railed me in the jugular and i almost drowned. had trouble breathing for a few days.
1982 Was swinging my feet under my twin fin and smacked a fin with my heel and sliced off a chunk. This hurt like hell.
1984 Made the mistake of throwing my board over a wave and it came back and hit me in the face. This was the morrning before my senior prom and it knocked my front teeth out.
1986 Wiped out on New Years eve and was hit from behind by my board. It puctured my hood and stabbed me in the back of the head and chipped my skull. I saw stars on that one, kept surfing for an hour before getting out and realizing my hood was full of blood.
1994 Fell from the top of a 10 foot faced wave during a hurricane (not sure which one) and fell on my fin with my arm. Sliced a gash down to the muscle. The Doctor made me swear not to go back in the water for 2 weeks (I didn't).
1996 Was taking a Bungy cord off of my rack and had the cord come back and hit me square in the forehead and sliced me open. Missed my eye by .5 inch .
2001 My 2 year old son put sand in my melted wax and I surfed like that. The sand wore the skin off of my knee where I drag it while popping up. This was the most painful and long lasting injury I think I have ever had. Everytime it would heal I would go surfing and the new skin would tear off. Took about 6 months to fully heal.
2006 Was messing around on a wave at the very end (where it was like 2 foot high) and did a little floater and had the backwash jump up and smack the board right up and into my face and break my nose.
2008 Fell on the reef in the Caribbean and got puctured in the ass with a bunch of urchin spines. They went right thu my shorts and were sticking out. Had to pluck them out one by one and it hurt!!!!!
Man I never realized how many times I have been hurt until I put it down into writing.
For you guys with chaff problems, I started wearing a pair of speedos under my board shorts when on long trips in the tropics and have never had a problem since. You can surf all day everyday with no problem at all. Just don't forget to wear board shorts on top
yes I was waiting for someone to say that because I didn't want to sound like a kook wearing a speedo and all.
that's exactly what I do, I wear the speedo that's a little longer than the tighty whitey ones(goes down to my mid thighs) because i was having trouble with chafing over the summer. I remember saying to myself before I got the speedo that I couldn't wait until I could throw my wetsuit on again and I wouldn't have that problem.
Now my problem is that I have a thermal shirt connected to my hood and there must be a loose stitch or somethin right near my armpit so when I paddle I feel it rubbing under my shoulder and I get out and it stings like a *****.
try having a knee dislocate when going for a floater that sucks kept me out for a long time and put me on crutches for a while. finally try having a torn akelis tendon that hasnt fully healed yet and it happened a year ago.the reason i dont get surgery on the ankle is im too young (15 about to be 16) to have the surgery dine and it would take to long as in rehab. so when i surf i just wear an ace bandage thats wrapped up really tight around the ankle so it doesnt hurt.
i cant even imagine how bad dislocating your knee would hurt... holy crap that sucks. take care of that.
WB: C-street and Mase and Sweetwater and all sorts of chill places around WB. Its rad.
last summer I got this weird chaffing on my knee. Everytime I'd pop up it's rub skin off and prevent it from healing. It was a really tiny injury, only about the size of a dime, but I think it got infected and it looked like a burn, just a straight up hole in my skin. Definitely painful and a massive hassle. Other than that and a broken nose and a couple of fin cuts, I've gotten off easy.
Chaffing does suck. I would hold off on the gold bond, sometimes can make things worst. Best thing to help is preventing the skin from friction , and that means not doing much lol I shredded my feet and leg pretty bad last hurricane season. Was waiting to jump and some idiot slipped behind me. Fell on some barnicles and was nasty. Had some other retard moments as well lol