Wow. Beautiful. I missed out huge time. Sadly I would not have been able to surf anyways with a recent rather annoying neck injury.
I need a debate resolved please. The one pic of the dude going right (hoodless), the wave is head and a half ++, and the dude is flying. Wasn't it pretty cold yesterday, and isn't the water in the 30's? My question: is that really from yesterday in OC? It's cause much debate among my crew (all of whom MISSED IT).
Good to see the sandbars working so well.....and kudos to all who got pitted, we deserved this one and can't wait for the next one.
I was out in Belmar and Crazy Jimmy was wearing a 3 mil and his hood was pulled down. Temperature wise the air was nice but the water was chilly. I lasted 2 and half hours before my toes were hurting pretty bad. Jimmy pulled his up when the wind picked up a little. The waves were nice sized. Occasional overhead's, mostly shoulder to head and lined up nicely.
Will Hall (http://www.willhallphoto.com) and I evidently shot the same surfer and the same wave but his posted date is off by three days. It was VERY flat here on the 16th. Most of my sequence is from take off to the shot I posted, and it looks like Will's shots were from right after my shot through about four more. Check his site and you'll see what I mean. Chris came out of the water to walk back down the beach (drift) right after that wave and he stopped to talk to Bill Helmuth and I before paddling back out. He had an attached hood, but wasn't wearing it. Young guys can get away with stuff like that. I can't. To each his own. I have some more shots, but I'm honoring an earlier commitment. Will's site has some other good shots as well.
Last edited by MDSurfer; Feb 20, 2009 at 10:09 PM.