do you know why the east coast is the best place to grow up as a surfer?
it humbles you. ive been to hawaii and california, and every time i go, all i want is to be back on the right coast. theres just something that you can't forget. its small, choppy, and inconsistent but for some reason every time I leave I want to come back. whenever theres a chest high day i can't forget it. i remember every wave, every turn, every moment. is it because theres so much effort in it, or just because this is where i grew up? maybe because in the winter everyone in the water truly loves surfing. or maybe because an eight hour drive to the outer banks is worth every minute. i love the east coast because it is truly magical. i may stray away, but my home will always be in the atlantic. my heart will always point east.