To say you were lucky is an understatement. Back in the sixties local Delaware waterman Bill Wise (a co-owner of the Hobie "Eastern Surfer" surf shop here in OCM) was surfing up near Bethany Beach on a stupid little shorebreak day, and his life really changed. He was a fairly high level quad the rest of his life, but fortunately he had a very loving wife and family and a terrific support group of loyal friends. His paralysis prevented him from surfing again, but I've heard tales of Mickey Munoz and Phil Edwards lashing him to the hull of their catamaran and going sailing for the ride of his life. Bill went on to write, run the "Likewise" bikini shop in Ocean City, and continue to shoot photographs with a cable release that he tripped with his tongue and all this was way before digital cameras and auto-focus. He was a very special guy to be sure. Here's some more information on him: http://www.billwisesurfs.com/
and I shot some photos at the OC Surfrider celebration of his life after he passed away about two years ago now. http://www.jetboating.net/jetboating...?galleryid=384
and Melbourne Beach transplant Will Lucas included a special tribute to Bill's legacy that can be viewed at http://www.surf64.com/index_bwsv.htm
I also happen to have a son who is a quadriplegic as the result of wrestling at a party. His paralysis line runs right through both arms. He is now 15 years post injury (he was 19 at the time) and he's still making his way through life. A year or two after his injury I adapted a bodyboard for him by adding side rails (let me know if you want to see photos of the board) and I became his flippers to launch him into waves. Not long after that, he sent a letter to the editor of Surfer Magazine who published it. At the core of the letter was this sentiment: "Surf every wave as if it were your last, because in an instant, it can all be over."
I'm incredibly glad to hear that you suffered no debilitating injury from your experience, and I urge you and readers of this posting to visit http://www.liferollson.org/site/pp.a...LKTNJE&b=79268 to read about, and get involved with their commitment to spinal cord injury research, and specifically the "They will Surf Again" program that centers around Jessie Billhauer- a close personal friend of Rob Machado's.
While you're there, you can see a guy in a wheelchair absolutely kick-ass on a swimming pool bowl. Shorebreaks always have been, and still are VERY dangerous. Be careful out there.
this happened to me in 97 also. trying to do a roll at k-road.head in sand/ head over heels. i couldn't move for 3 days and was out of work for a month. the only thing to fix me a month later was the chyropractor.....my spelling sucks. the minute after i went to him ,i went rite to the smiths and rode waves again. ask kris! this is q by the way. it never goes away and comes back randomly ever year or two. doing things like a quick a spin early in a session can give you a quick reminder of the pain.
You either love them or hate them. Bottom line, don't trust the wisdom of spinal adjustment. Truth be told, how many major universities in this country teach chiropractic? One- the American School of Chiropractic, and the AMA doesn't recognize it.
I know how you feel - really. I came back from Puerto Rico last winter and was playing around on an inside section in shallow water in my home break. Next thing I know the wave sucks out sending me head first into 4 inches of water and I compressed my spine . Lifeguards assisted me out because I was in so much pain I couldn't even walk. Managed to get home and 6 months later I still have discomfort. Did acupuncture which helped get movement back into my neck but its still not 100%. It is weird I surfed world class waves for months without even a scratch from the reefs and then nearly kill myself in waste high waves. You ever know. Your article is well written and wish you best of luck on getting back to it soon!