
Originally Posted by
dredg2
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, the 6"5 in like chest high surf can even be too slow if it's not hollow or your too high up on the wave which slows you down. Plus, my natural stance is keeping feet/legs a bit closer together vs. wider stance, so without my backfoot planted on the deck its hard to plant my rail or really do full carves without that support on the tail. If my backfoot is on the tail I lose speed because the board is too long for the waves im riding sometimes--so I cant win during certain waves.
That's why I think a 6"0 for my particular height 5"8/155 lbs weight is perfect. In the summer the 2 1/4 maybe even lighter would be better for tropical waves like you said, but winter time definitely will grab a board with 2 3/8 giving me a little more volume.
I'm still learning which board works best for me and given that winter is the best for to surf in jersey, I need the proper board which can hold that extra rubber and provide a little more help with paddling for me anyway.
Of course, if you're a pro or surf every single day..then you have an advantage and probably dont need the extra volume but my *ss does!