the circus is back in town...

got to love it,..little warm water, some sunshine and the line-ups turn to clown soup.

1. Made my first save of the season, young kid with no flippers caught in a rip. whole day I was seeing so many allowed to go well beyond the point of no return, but no warning from the guards? The guards have got to be more pro-active, a piece of foam and no flippers is a sure way for a tour-on to get in some deep crap. No flippers means no going out past chest high, right?

2. Our most loved surf beach attendant, the large guy who wants to be a cop, (not the sharpest tool in the shed),..needs his whistle taken away for sure, or at least shoved in his ear.

3. If you are a life guard who is dumb enough to swim out into a pack of thirty plus surfers, start yelling at them and telling some they have to get out of the water, do not be surprised if you are the one who ends up needing to be saved.

4. yes the water and ocean is free to all but just because you own a piece of glass or foam does not mean you belong at top spots. Nothing wrong with NSIRI or AI for those of the slow go nature. a log on a short board day is for clowns, unless you got the skills,.. very few have those skills...

5. local shops should be making money off repair work, or some will be doing their own work at home. I saw four full contact run ins between the 18th and 19th, and i am not talking about dings. Full blown large holes in nice boards due to ignorance,... playing chicken on pieces of sharp glass and waves is not smart or wise.

6. The 19th was ok, other then the crowds early it was not so bad, a few plus peaks for sure. saw some of the local rippers doing their thing,..nice to see Colin Herlihy and Phil Hudson make it down for a session. Vince B., Waldon, Matt, and others were running the surf beach, they really should allow some others a few waves once in a while,..NOT. Thirty plus head at the surf beach and the same four or five get ever set wave, really funny to watch. Plenty of drop in, a few words exchanged here and there, but over all fairly calm when you consider the crowds.

7. I know it took some effort to get even the surf beaches that they have now, but I really wish that the local ESA could push for just a little more room to work with at the surf beaches. At least on some of the better days when the crowds are that much larger, I wish that the OCBP could be given the ability to expand at least one of the two surf beaches to two full streets.

8. Fractured the tip of my pointing finger somehow while surfing, really strange injury, don't know how it happened really.


It did turn out to be a all day event if you had it in you. For me six hours was enough. Nice to see some of the local faces enjoying the weather and waves.