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  1. #261
    Can someone educate me a bit? Why are long period swells more likely to close out and be unrideable than short period swells? I can see why the size of the wave in relation to the depth and shape of the sandbar would make a wave a wave unrideable, but it's not clear to me why the period (which i understand to mean the period of time between swells) would cause a different result. Someone help out a rookie wave scientist here.

  2. #262
    Hopefully saturdays not blown out

  3. #263
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Green Room
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    903
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    8
    To the top

  4. #264
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Lewes, DE
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    5,377
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    huck, i responded to your other thread with the same question. the link I provided pretty there much summed it up.

    This is how it works, the longer the wave period the longer the wave length. When these waves move toward the shore, they feel the ocean bottom and refract to become more parallel to the coast. Since the long period swells, have bigger wave lengths, essentially this creates one very long wall. That is why on long period swells, beach breaks tend to close out, while the point breaks handle these waves much better where you can very long waves that peel on and on down the line.

    Its hard to explain without pictures, but that is the best I can do first thing in the morning!

  5. #265
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    MoCo and OC
    Posts
    64

    Yep

    Looks like it should be steadily building all day and the OBX should be in that range....

  6. #266
    Quote Originally Posted by GreatWhiteShark View Post
    I was curious and just swam under this beast to check things out. I think you guys will be happy. I should be in the mid-atlantic region by tonight so I'll look forward to seeing you all.
    You've got a little something stuck between your teeth. You better get that out before it turns into a cavity.

  7. #267
    Quote Originally Posted by Huck View Post
    Can someone educate me a bit? Why are long period swells more likely to close out and be unrideable than short period swells? I can see why the size of the wave in relation to the depth and shape of the sandbar would make a wave a wave unrideable, but it's not clear to me why the period (which i understand to mean the period of time between swells) would cause a different result. Someone help out a rookie wave scientist here.
    I know surfline is the enemy..but for the purposes of this question... they put together a good image describing the refraction tendencies of different periods of swell in their hurricane bill video forecast.
    http://www.surfline.com/forecast/hur...t-coast_29774/

  8. #268
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Monmouth County
    Posts
    1,356
    going for a paddle later on in the afternoon. hopefully it's big and messy with a ****load of paddling and i get loose for sunday.

  9. #269
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Lewes, DE
    Posts
    5,377
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    121
    ya, good thing we have some time to get loose in the friday/saturday surf... god knows i need it... hasn't been too much as of late.

  10. #270
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Long Branch
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    Miss this problem