yeah i heard st. auggie and jax were pretty good. glad to hear you scored in bethune. it was pretty closed out this evening, with some massive sets rolling through. got a bunch of really good rights throughout the day, just had to wait a long time and constantly paddle against the drift.

my last wave was a half decent right which closed out on me...turn around only to see the biggest set yet, so i caught some whitewater in instead of trying to exhaust my body even more by trying to get back out. turned out to be a great call, once i got in saw three huge sets (8ft+) come in, which i woulda taken on the head.....

anyways....stoked! lets see what tomorrow holds...