Hope every1 stayed safe. Swell was good and fun

Hope every1 stayed safe. Swell was good and fun
Ya, Bill was the biggest I've seen on the East Coast and definitely a reality check with a large healthy side of Respect. Definitely saw the triple overhead waves all around Hatteras island and watching those outer bars break in Rodanthe and the handful of guys who were out there on Saturday really makes you appreciate the balls and training this enigmatic sport of surfing requires. I thought I was in good shape and getting a lot better but after trying to get out Saturday in Buxton and being spit back on the beach without getting near the second bar I realize I have to put in a LOT more time to practice and train to really be ready for the majesty the ocean has to offer. I did learn that it's something I want to do but Bill definitely pinched me and said "you are not ready." Still though it was a trip to see the ocean firing bombs off like that on Saturday; Friday and Sunday when I could get out were a lot of fun ...Mad props to you crazy bastards who were carving the faces of those titans!
and man AI was big and a long paddle I am just glad i made tghe paddle out and got some waves.
saturday nigght from around 6-8 was as close to perfect as ive seen. glassy conditions with no wind nd over 1.5 overhead. sunday morning was awesome to but a little smaller