Buxton was nuts. Was a little junky till you got to the lineup and there was a lot of current moving around but the sets were a few feet overhead, thick and hollow. Only problem was there was too many people who didn't know what they were doing or how to duckdive. I was scared I was going to get a surfboard in the teeth.
Some guy asked me if a guy "got his head cut off on the jetty could his family sue Cape Hatteras?" He also asked me what it was when a wave "broke all at once, instead of shouldering up" [sigh]