
Originally Posted by
ughVeeBee
i think the secretest spot i'll ever surf i just surfed the other and may never surf again...dead-low tide and winds offshore, backwash breaking on the landside of a sandbar at a pretty common spot that was deserted due to underrated reporting (not Swell'fo's). I was paddling out and felt this big push beachside, got up and rode about 30 yards until I hit a chest-high standing wave on the next bar out, hit the lip frontside and pulled back into the curl and rode down the face, then pearled and bailed. I'm fairly certain that will never happen again.