Was there a stranger with candy wanting to know about your "secret spots" in your past? That would help explain why you're such an angry person.
the "stranger" was your mother ...and although years ago my parents taught me not to talk to strangers.... I banged your mom out anyway. She just looked so pitiful standing there on the corner in the rain... I just had to! I am "angry" cause she didn't gargle before she swallowed.
i think the secretest spot i'll ever surf i just surfed the other and may never surf again...dead-low tide and winds offshore, backwash breaking on the landside of a sandbar at a pretty common spot that was deserted due to underrated reporting (not Swell'fo's). I was paddling out and felt this big push beachside, got up and rode about 30 yards until I hit a chest-high standing wave on the next bar out, hit the lip frontside and pulled back into the curl and rode down the face, then pearled and bailed. I'm fairly certain that will never happen again.
WOW! The one wave secret spot. You were so lucky to be there.
I saw JCrax with that old lady. At first I thought it was dumpster diving but then I realized he was just hitting another blown out "secret spot."
The only secret spot in LB is the one you find as you drive along the 5 miles of Ocean Ave (between North End & Pav Ave) that's breaking nice that day with less than 10 people. That includes "Gaskins," otherwise known as "Beach Plum" or the end of the promanade or whatever else you want to call it.
Heading south, there's the secret spot at Casinos, then the secret spot at Darlington. They're all secret, though. Don't tell anyone and for God's sake, if you're heading to one of these spots and see a vehicle with sticks on the roof in your rearview mirror, go to the mall to throw them off!