
i find that stretching out really good before i paddle out helps alot when i go to paddle out especially in big surf.
timing is also very important as to when you should get in the water, you dont want to paddle out as soon as the sets are rolling in. you will kill yourself fighting against every wave.
instead of combating against the waves, find the riptide and take it straight out to sea, i find this most useful sometimes not even getting my head wet lol.
pushing yourself all the way until you make it to the outside of the surf and getting time to rest is what gets me through
practicing sprints up a stair set helps me to train my body for short rapid burst of leg movement kind of like getting through the surf