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  1. #11
    wtf some guys gotta hate on sombody who honestly writes about his surfing experiences
    what kind of charge do you get from tearing a brother down
    we are just little fish in a big pond

  2. #12
    Yea I mean like me he could have had to teach himself to surf and inspiration was all he had.

  3. #13
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    Taught myself in an era of no video and no money for magazines. Surfed a little jetty on Sandy Hook NJ and thought my friends and I were the kings and the best surfers around. We actually thought we were ready to go pro, lol. When we got a car and started traveling a bit we realized very quickly how much we sucked and how many great surfers there really were. In our defence we were riding crap equipment and had never seen another person surf for the first 4 years. The only images we had were from some 1950's book from the library on surfing. I was riding a 6'3" single fin and the big move I was trying to learn was hanging ten and wondering why I couldn't do it. When finally a big swell came and a bunch of real surfers arrived at our break, I was embarresed to say the least, at the skill level they were at and the **** level I was at. The 70's were a great time with light crowds etc but it would have been nice to see better surfers once in a while to learn how to really surf and be pushed a bit.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zippy View Post
    Taught myself in an era of no video and no money for magazines. Surfed a little jetty on Sandy Hook NJ and thought my friends and I were the kings and the best surfers around. We actually thought we were ready to go pro, lol. When we got a car and started traveling a bit we realized very quickly how much we sucked and how many great surfers there really were. In our defence we were riding crap equipment and had never seen another person surf for the first 4 years. The only images we had were from some 1950's book from the library on surfing. I was riding a 6'3" single fin and the big move I was trying to learn was hanging ten and wondering why I couldn't do it. When finally a big swell came and a bunch of real surfers arrived at our break, I was embarresed to say the least, at the skill level they were at and the **** level I was at. The 70's were a great time with light crowds etc but it would have been nice to see better surfers once in a while to learn how to really surf and be pushed a bit.
    Haha, good story.

  5. #15
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    Ha Ha glad you liked it, sad but true . The best part about the big swell when all the real surfers showed up was that we would park on the bayside of the seawall and could see the top of the waves breaking. We had no idea anyone else was around because knowone ever was around. We jumped up on the seawall with our boards hooting and hollering and jumped down to see about 30 surfers and their girls parked right up against the wall. They all looked at us like we were the biggest loosers around. Trying to save face we grabbed our boards and preceded to paddle out. After about 20 minutes of getting pounded I gave up and tried to hide below the cut knowing that everyone who saw us making the big scene was aware that we didn't even get out. My friend managed at the last minute to punch through and was just reaching the lineup when his mother started screaming from the beach for him to come in. She was yelling "thats an angry ocean get your ass in here!". He managed to ignore her for a few minutes then had to come in, he paddled for a set wave, caught it and went head over heels down the face. Eventually he rolled up on the sand humiliated. That is one of my favorite memories .
    Last edited by Zippy; Nov 6, 2009 at 07:59 PM.

  6. #16
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    [QUOTE=jimmycraxcorn;45991]
    Quote Originally Posted by MATT JOHNSON View Post
    Miki Dora and Greg Noll are the 2 major influences in my surfingQUOTE]

    and this has what to do with the question? I'm pretty sure Greg didn't give you any tips and then shove you into a wave
    They didnt directly "teach" me how to surf but , I have alway been into that era of surfing and thats what got me hooked on surfing.

    Miki Dora had some amazing foot work skills and nose riding ability. "Miki Dora could ride the nose so long he could eat a chesse sandwich out there" Quote Bruce Brown

    Greg Noll who isnt influenced by "Da Bull" . Surfer like Greg Noll and Chip Van Artsdale were pioneers of Big Wave surfing and took the sport to a higher level.

    Both there styles of surfing are major influences in my surfng. I rember been a kid and watching Endless Summer on AMC channel for the very first time I was hooked after that . The nextday I went out and got my very first board from a yard sale. It was a 9'0 Hobie from the 60's a total tank but I didnt care .

    People teach other people things everyday . Most dont teach directly to a person but what a person has done can leave a meaningful impact on someone's life

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zippy View Post
    Ha Ha glad you liked it, sad but true . The best part about the big swell when all the real surfers showed up was that we would park on the bayside of the seawall and could see the top of the waves breaking. We had no idea anyone else was around because knowone ever was around. We jumped up on the seawall with our boards hooting and hollering and jumped down to see about 30 surfers and their girls parked right up against the wall. They all looked at us like we were the biggest loosers around. Trying to save face we grabbed our boards and preceded to paddled out. After about 20 minutes of getting pounded I gave up and tried to hide below the cut knowing that everyone who saw us making the big scene was aware that we didn't even get out. My friend managed at the last minute to punch through and was just reaching the lineup when his mother started screaming from the beach for him to come in. She was yelling "thats an angry ocean get your ass in here!". He managed to ignore her for a few minutes then had to come in, he paddled for a set wave, caught it and went head over heels down the face. Eventually he rolled up on the sand humiliated. That is one of my favorite memories .
    Good stuff man

  8. #18
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    Jun 2009
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    Delaware
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    Uncle took me out in 3 to 4 foot glass at Cocoa Beach, FL. when I was 9. Seemed huge at the time! LOL Practically lived at Canaveral Pier after that! Big influence, I would have to say Mark "Occy" Occhilupo!! First board was a 6' Hotline I got at Mandalay Surf Shop in Clearwater Beach.

  9. #19
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    If we're also talking influences, I have always loved Tom Curren. Not like bromance loved, but really admired.

  10. #20
    It was 1964 and my buddy's parents bought him a 9'8 Sportflite from Sears. We took that baby to Dewey Beach and surfed all day. Took turns pushing each other into the white water, kept slipping and busting our a$$es all day. Finally some big dude came up to us and took the board and started rubbing "parafin" (that was the only wax you could buy back then, it was used to seal jelly jars) all over the top. We had been surfing without wax all day. That guy was a big influence on my surfing because it was a hell of a lot easier after that!